Harvey Finkel

Many are the forces pulling centrifugally to fragment the unity of Chianti, the wine. The soils, exposures, microclimates, grape varieties and clones, political boundaries, production methods and regulations, and fashion are all subject to tremendous, sometimes bewildering, variegation. What hold the center are an ancient tradition that connects back to... Read More

Chile is still figuring out its complex slopes, valleys, and microclimates, and still doing it right at enticing prices. I was introduced to still another Chilean brand, MontGras Properties, when its head winemaker, Santiago Margozzini, visited recently. I came away very glad to have met him and his wines.MontGras was... Read More

About 25 years ago I was going through something of an epiphany regarding wine’s influences upon health. At the time there were two committed camps in the US. A sizable number insisted that anything containing alcohol was intrinsically evil, prohibitionists denying that any good could ever come from drinking, however... Read More

Few indeed are sources of world-class Pinot Noir. Let us count them. The gold standard resides in the Côte d’Or and, to a lesser degree, the Côte Chalonnaise. I’ve drunk two or three exemplars in the Alto Adige, Italy’s most northerly reaches. Over here, we have Oregon’s Willamette Valley and... Read More

“O where hae ye been, Lord Randall, my boon?O where hae ye been; so wan hae ye groon?”“I’ve been to yon vineyard; mother make my bed soon,For I’m weary o’ pinot, and fain would lie doon.” “I’ll plant the mourvèdre, and will dolcetto proon,And I’ll pick them both by the... Read More

Wade Holtzman must be a jinni to be able to cram the concentrated essence of 😯 apples, nearly a bushel, into one little bottle. Abetted by his wife, Margot, and son, Leif, he manages that feat 96OO times a year at the family’s Still River Winery in Harvard, Massachusetts. The... Read More

Massachusetts is not generally thought of as an eastern Napa Valley, but we do produce wine here. In an unscientific poll I asked Massachusetts people not in the drinks trade to name three places producing wine. The responses, in rank order, included California, France, Italy. There was a single mention... Read More

Her Majesty, the Queen of Pinot Noir, otherwise known as Merry Edwards, was born right here in Newton. I learned the story of how Merry got from eastern Massachusetts to be royalty in California’s Russian River Valley during a recent visit. Meredith Edwards, daughter of an MIT-educated engineer, was taken... Read More

Mercer Estates, in Prosser, is mainly the story of two families of farmers in southeastern Washington making wine from the grapes they grow. Three appellations are involved: the overarching Columbia Valley, Yakima Valley, Washington’s first recognized AVA, and Horse Heaven Hills, probably my favorite name among AVAs. (It was so... Read More

In the far northern reaches of Lombardy, 1OO kilometers north of Milan, so near the edge of Italy that one might fall off into Switzerland, lies the isolated Valtellina, a region unique in its geography, its culture and its wines. Here is grown the noble nebbiolo of a character distinct... Read More