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Chablis

It’s ironic that Chablis, a geographic place name adopted to adorn jugs of standardized branded blends for the last several decades in the US, is actually among the most distinctive and inimitable wines produced anywhere. The signature aroma and flavor of its wines are even “more unique” than those of...
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The Wines of Bin 26

Babak and his sister Azita Bina-Seibel are equal partners in the restaurants and wines; she is the executive chef for both places. She was actually in the kitchen at Bin 26 when I had lunch that day: a gently autocratic presence with long, straight salt and pepper hair, and a...
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Oxygen

Oxygen has always been a blessing and curse as it reacts to the world around it. From way back in grade school science we have been taught that oxygen is the core of the building blocks of life. Animals need it to breathe, fire to burn, without it life as...
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Chelminski and His Book

In his new book, I’ll Drink to That: Beaujolais and the French Peasant Who Made It the World’s Most Popular Wine, author Rudolph Chelminski charts the rise and fall and inevitable rise again (if he has anything to do with it) of the Beaujolais empire. The French peasant his too-long...
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Chianti Classico

For many years, Chianti Classico has wanted little to do with Chianti. From 1932 until 1996, Chianti Classico was legally a subzone of Chianti. Chianti Classico, however, felt and continues to feel that Chianti blemishes its image. The overall standard of quality of Chianti is lower than that of Chianti...
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Revisiting the French Paradox

Not quite the solution to the french paradox. Just before Christmas 2OO1, the research group led by Roger Corder, PhD, at the William Harvey Research Institute in London, stimulated a flurry of excitement by publishing a brief communication in nature. proposing an explanation of the French paradox and of the...
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Beer’s Future

THE HOP CRISIS The celebrations of craft beer producers have a darkening cloud hanging over them. The talk among brewers and distributors in recent months has turned from their recent successes to the possibility of a severe shortage of raw materials for use in the brewing process. While craft brewers...
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Champagne Had Been Booming

Judging by aggregate sales figures for the first 7 months of 2OO6, Americans are doing a lot of celebrating. Whereas imported wines in general keep creeping higher as a percentage of the overall US wine market, Champagne has always constituted a category unto itself. Sales trends in this unique segment...
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Pinot Uprighted

The Pinot Noir story is a remarkable one. It’s amazing what “the movie”, whatever you happen to think of it, has wrought in the wine business. What’s more amazing is how long wine professionals have been patiently sniffing, tasting, talking and writing about their pet grape variety to virtually zero...
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Irish Whiskey

With cramped Dublin ‘bed-sitters’ today costing as much as San Francisco lofts and Boston studios, it’s no wonder that dive pubs along the Liffey (like the now-toney former navvy-hangout warehouse section of Temple Bar) have mutated into posh saloons and the Irish whiskeys they serve (mixed in with your Cosmos...
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