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Cognac

Here, at the beginning of 2004, I confess to feeling like a total square. After weeks of research and interviews for this current, annual, in-depth Cognac category profile, any conceit that there might still be something hip and contemporary about me has been quickly shattered. By ROBERT BRADFORD I always...
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Pinot Gris or Grigio

The dramatic increase in the popularity of Pinot Gris over the past few years has vaulted it into second place among the white grapes that Americans choose most frequently, right behind Chardonnay. The vast majority of the bottles, however, are labeled Pinot Grigio and imported from Italy or produced in...
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Queer Year for Beer

2OO5 was also the year when beer industry executives publicly admitted that their actions had bruised the public image of beer and thus dented their bottom lines. The mainstream media continues to hammer the notion that beer is passe and that consumers are tumbling over one another to get their...
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Stella!!!

MICHAEL AHEARN • 34 • Head Bartender • Stella • Boston’s South End Michael could be having a bad day – worked ’til 3, up at 6 to mind sis’ kids, bar’s a mess, distributors are delivering waaaaay too early – but he’s upbeat, animated, witty, and his hair looks...
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Pinot Blanc

Not that the wine it makes ever knocks you out with dramatic flavor. Its charms are subtlety and understatement. It flows rather than rushes at you. More Debussy than Wagner. But this is exactly what I’m looking for lately in a multi-purpose white wine with fish. In fact, one of...
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Zins At My BBQ

Readers can pull off such a tasting themselves, though the dimensions of it all can get out of hand. Participants (mostly consumers, a few trade folks) bought into this event by pledging a small fee and contributing one or two bottles. The tasting took place in a naturally lit room,...
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Sweet Smell of Shiraz

Bill Hardy, scion of the eponymic family of the Hardy Wine Company, visited Massachusetts recently, bearing samples of Hardy’s way with Shiraz, the Australian term for Syrah. We’ll get into those specifics after consideration of the genre. Syrah is the great black grape of the northern Rhone, most notably Cote...
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Tasting Vin Santo

Every year, in the first week of June, Tuscany’s Carmignano Consorzio presents its newly released vintages to journalists. By far the most interest is lavished on the prestigious local red wines, the Carmignano and Carmignano Riserva DOCGs, but Carmignano for its size (some 2O producers working some 5OO acres of...
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Discovering Vermentino

Vermentino is Italy’s best shot for an indigenous variety that could go international. Years ago, some journalists wagged their fingers at producers warning them that the name “Vermentino” could be confused for a diminutive term for “vermin”. But the trade and the public has, either mercifully or by chance, chosen...
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Riccetelli and Lopez

Master and apprentice, behemoth and beauty, yin and yang: two complementary personalities and temperaments make this newly formed team creating wine at Bodega Norton. The winery was founded by Edmund James Palmer Norton, an English engineer who’d come to Argentina to help in the gargantuan task of building the Transandean...
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