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Alsace

Comparative blind tastings I’ve conducted over the years of wines from Alsace invariably reinforce my impression of their excellence, in line with my habit of ordering wines from unknown producers virtually at random in restaurants. In fact, there’s no bigger disconnect in my mind between a classic wine region and...
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Session Beer

AMERICANS DO NOT have much experience in consciously limiting their alcohol intake.  Out history has been punctuated with periods of government enforced moderation or prohibition and our doctors have informed us of the health benefits surrounding limited alcohol consumption.  But as a drinking populace, we have not yet embraced the...
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MULL THIS OVER

ACIDITY MAY BE the least appreciated essential element of wine, yet we are losing it.  Acidity gives balance, liveliness, some of the elegance of wine, and helps to preserve its integrity while aging.  Insufficient acidity equals boring, flabby, heavy wine that may reach senility before maturing.  Progressively rising global temperatures...
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BOSTON’S GRANDTEN DISTILLERY

WITH THE legalization of homebrewing in 1978, the US craft brewing industry began its climb from as few as ninety breweries to its 2O13 record high of 2822.  The craft distilling industry remains about twenty years behind the brewing curve, yet a similar pattern of booming growth cannot be denied. ...
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USA CHARDONNAY

IT’S BECOME almost a reflex among segments of the wine community to dismiss domestic Chardonnay.  How could something this popular be any good?  A common prejudice I hear sommeliers express regards Chardonnays whose aromas or flavors reflect even a trace of oak contact as examples of the wine industry using...
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FORMULA ONE BUBBLY

No question that Champagne sets the standard, but sparkling wines of character and elegance – and price – are also made in other places, even places not French.  Today we’ll consider those of Cantine Ferrari in Trentino. Located in Italy’s far north, the vines grow on south-facing slopes at between...
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A DRINK WITH DONAL O’GALLACHOIR

A DRINK WITH DONAL O’GALLACHOIRBrand Manager for Glendalough Irish Whiskey IF YOU HAVE YET TO meet Donal O’Gallachoir, you soon will.  This Irish-born brand ambassador and self-described whiskey nerd is spreading the gospel of his country’s original spirit: poitín (pronounced “potcheen”).  He recently moved to Boston and is finding a...
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WHO DO THE VOODOO

Contrary to the general expectation that WHO, the World Health Organization, is imbued with objective medical science, once again it has issued a document, its world cancer report 2o14, that, in the section on alcohol, seems to me more a prohibitionistic, political polemic than dispassionate, professional and helpful.  This is...
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