Tuscans Returning
Tuscany’s 2OO4 vintage now rests quietly in containers of steel, oak and concrete. In February 2OO5, at a series of tastings organized in Tuscany by the consortiums of Chianti Classico, Montepulciano and Montalcino, I sipped barrel and tank samples of 2OO4s. I sensed their future profiles. I can’t say that... Read More
Tom Schmeisser
TOM SCHEISSER • Chief Wine Buyer • Marty’s Liquors • Newton & Allston, MA Tom Schmeisser is a front-running candidate for best-known and best-liked wine professional in Massachusetts. Tom has been the chief wine buyer at Marty’s (Newton and Allston) for 35 years, and has been a strong factor in... Read More
Pinot Noir
In the current film Sideways, the personality of the principle character, Miles, is identified with that of his favorite varietal wine, Pinot Noir. Many say, though it is arguable, that Pinot Noir is enhanced by the presence of low-level wine faults. Because Miles gets roaring drunk whenever he gets angry,... Read More
Paul Delios
PAUL DELLIOS • 4$ • Owner/Chef • Meze Estiatorio, Charlestown PROFILE Paul Delios and Bill Galatis are upholding the Greek Revival in New England. The all-Greek menu at Meze Estiatorio – their stunning 24O seat dining room in City Square Charlestown overlooking the Zakim Bridge – is itself a symbol... Read More
Frank DePasquale
FRANK De PASQUALE • 53 • Restaurateur • Bricco, Umbria, Mare, News, Express, Trattoria Il Panino Since launching his first Trattoria Il Panino in 1989, Frank De Pasquale has opened a basketful of 21 diversely styled restaurants. Though the self-made restaurateur holds fast to the uncompromising ideal of serving authentic... Read More
The Dangers of Being popular
AS IN MOST INDUSTRIES, wine has a list of the usual suspects. Inevitably, in almost every wine store or restaurant they show up, and consumers are drawn to them. To a degree it’s hard to blame the wine buyer for this when these labels have so much positive force behind... Read More
Desert Wine
That’s right, readers: thirsty devouts planted the first vineyards in New Mexico – possibly in the new world – in Socorro, New Mexico in 162O! These friars came from New Spain (now Mexico) with the first Spanish colonists in 1598 led by Don Juan de Onate. The friars ministered to... Read More
Angus O’Leary
PROFILE Angus O’Leary arrived on these shores from Dublin in 1979, in the heyday of Boston’s Irish bar scene, and a leg or two ahead of the meteoric rise of international Irish pubdom. Educated in the Irish language, O’Leary had studied medicine at Trinity College, Dublin, “but I couldn’t get... Read More
Loire’s Sauvignon Blancs
Of course, the French drive us a bit insane with how inconsistent their wines remain despite the supposed guarantees of the AOC system, and Loire Sauvignon is no exception. But when a Sancerre or Pouilly-Fume hits its target there is something so clean and penetrating about its flavors that whatever... Read More