ON THE ROCKS… The Era of Wine Cocktails & Spritzes
By Seema Tikare
Perhaps I am reaching my dotage, but somehow, suddenly, I am less opposed to the thought of putting a cube of ice into a glass of wine. My husband turns his nose up when I order a Shandy (1/2 beer – 1/2 lemonade/sprite) with lunch on a hot summer’s day. However, given that it is incredibly refreshing and lowers the alcohol content, I have never seen what his objection was. But had he suggested I put sprite into my wine, I would have been horrified. Not that I routinely recommend it, but given the trends for no or lower (“NoLo”) alcohol in wine and beer, perhaps we should expand our thinking.
The NoLo drink market is booming – as the result of a combination of the “sober-curious” movement, wildly successful marketing, and health concerns stoked by hyperbolic alarmism from various agencies. In 2O22, the NoLo sector grew by 9%, significant in a market that is shrinking for wine sales, even for stable products like Champagne. Furthermore, NoLo is projected to grow by 6% over the next several years, with a market value currently at $13 billion. Even more impressively, the ready-to-drink (RTD) alcohol market is growing at an average of 14.5% a year, with the expectation of it growing from $23.13 billion in 2O24 to $35.73 billion in 2O3O. Driven by similar factors to those of the NoLo market, such as health and wellness issues, but also the growing demand for convenience as well as having a simple way to enjoy a complicated blend.
Given this shocking turn in the market, one has to consider that while NoLo and RTD products are improving in and of themselves, we can also help the process along by thinking of ways to drink really good traditional wine while also reducing its alcoholic impact. Hence, does it genuinely affect one’s enjoyment of a wine on a 1OO-degree day if you add an ice cube? Or is it really so coarse to add a spritz with ginger ale or 7-Up? And if you like kir (wine with cassis syrup) or kir-royale (sparkling wine with cassis syrup), can’t you still feel like a grown-up? I believe I have come full circle from the days in my teens traveling around Europe when I loved various syrups and fruits in my beers and wines to now, when I drink much better beers and wines but still occasionally hanker for those youthful tipples.
There are many wonderful wines now that are perfect for such experimentation. Of course, there are Prosecco cocktails on every menu these days. I have also been seeing more and more Cava-ritas (margarita made with Cava) and Sangria. And what about a white wine mojito, for example? The following are some truly tasty white wines that are perfect for drinking by themselves as the weather gets warm but that also have enough body and structure to stand up to experimentation.
2O23 RIDGE GRENACHE BLANC, PASO ROBLES, CALIFORNIA
Made with 84% Grenache Blanc, 14% Picpoul, 2% Roussanne, this wine, from one of the premier wineries in the world, is rich and full-bodied. The complexity of the blend is enhanced by 33% American oak, 4% French oak, 2% concrete and 2% Italian clay amphora. It has 13.9% alcohol by volume, which is a pretty alcoholic white wine on its own. I personally would drink it alone, chilled, no ice. But if one were so inclined, given its exuberant pear, honeysuckle, pineapple, candied lime zest, and tangerine notes, I would happily add some tangerine and pineapple juice with a small hit of seltzer water. It would be amazingly refreshing with brunch on a lazy Sunday. Available from Classic Wine Imports.
2O21 TORRES VIÑA SOL BLANCO, RUEDA, SPAIN
There are very few still wines made with Parellada, which is an important variety in the Cava blend. This wine, made with 8O% Garnacha Blanca and 2O% Parellada, is a refreshing wine with loads of green apple and blossom notes from both varieties and relatively moderate amounts of acid. One way to enhance these flavors would be to add a lime twist and a spritz to make it even more refreshing with a lovely summer salad. At 11.5% alcohol, it will certainly not require a nap that afternoon! Available from MS Walker.
2O18 ALBERT BICHOT BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ, BURGUNDY, FRANCE
Aligoté is considered to be the second – or last – white grape of Burgundy. While it does not have the charm and versatility of Chardonnay, it still makes a lovely floral, lightly mineral and high acid wine. It is defined by soft blossom notes enhanced by lemon peel, some ginger and perhaps a hint of almonds. Aligoté is not a soft wine and therefore, it is actually what many people in France use for kir – an aperitif made with a glass of this wine and a small shot of cassis or black currant liqueur. At 12%, it is very sippable while being a lovely purplish color, perfect at sunset. Available from Southern Glazer’s Beverage Company.
2O22 CRAGGY RANGE SAUVIGNON BLANC, MARTINBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND
New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is a characteristic tropical fruit explosion on the nose and palate and Craggy Range does not disappoint. It is a wine that exudes the freshness of cut hay, grapefruit, and even some guava or jackfruit. It is a lovely, aromatic, full-bodied wine that can pack a real flavor punch. This is a wonderful selection to which one could add a light spritz or some grapefruit juice to enhance some of its inherent character and would pair deliciously with a creamy broccoli or mushroom soup. Available from Southern Glazer’s Beverage Company.
2O22 TENUTA REGALEALI CAVALLO DELLE FATE GRILLO, SICILIA DOC, ITALY
At first sniff, this seems like a simple wine – 1OO% Grillo – but the complexity lies just beneath the surface. The wonderful winemakers at Regaleali (pronounced Reg-ah-li-ah-li) pick the grapes at different stages of ripeness from just ripe to fairly mature in order to balance the freshness and crispness of early picking with the softness of ripe fruit flavors like melon and nectarine at later picking. Like all the others in this article, this is a wonderful wine on its own, but if one were to add a few small cubes of ripe melon, mandarin oranges and pears as if it were a Pimms Cup, no one would complain. It would be a perfect accompaniment to a watermelon, feta and mint salad or even a classic Waldorf salad. Available from Carolina Wine & Spirits.
2O22 BEAUCASTEL PERRIN COTES DU RHÔNE BLANC RESERVE, RHÔNE VALLEY, FRANCE
The Perrin family is held in immense regard for their Chateauneuf-du-Pape. But this Côtes du Rhône blanc is not to be overlooked. Made with 3O% Bourboulenc, 3O% Viognier, 3O% Marsanne and 1O% Clairette, it showcases most of the greatest hits of the southern Rhône. With a blend of fruity and floral grapes and a wonderful minerality, some of the apple and pear notes can verge into stone fruit (like peaches) and even give a hint of melon or mango. This full-bodied wine is a delicious addition to any meal but can certainly be served as a cocktail with lime juice, herbs and even a lace of St Germaine if you’re feeling adventurous. Available from Carolina Wine & Spirits.
