DRINKING THE DOURO DRY
by HARVEY FINKEL
FOR A SMALL COUNTRY, Portugal is prolific and complex in its wine production. While it is among the most pleasant places I’ve visited, the difficulties of the spoken language and the unfamiliar legion of indigenous grape varieties can be initially daunting, until meeting the accommodating people and tasting the savory wines dispels all hesitancy. The wines comfortably find a home at a table of any ethnic persuasion.
During a blessedly temperate respite in late February, Boston was visited by José Luis Moreira da Silva, resident winemaker of Quinta dos Murças, Esporão’s northern outpost on the Douro River’s right bank. (Murças is pronounced with a sibilant c.) Let’s start by explaining the parent company, then get more specific. Esporão is a family firm dealing in wine and olive oil. Tracing its remote origin back to 1267 in the Alentejo region 16O kilometers southeast of Lisbon, it has been owned by the Roquette family since 1973. The climate, and the wines, are distinctly different from what we’re considering today. The Douro region, long famed as the source of Port, has during the last few decades made its mark as producer of dry red wines, generally from the same grape varieties as Port. Both, and then some, are made at Murças.
The Murças estate, a complex of vineyards of varying soils, exposures, elevations (from 80 to 4OO meters), and vine patterns, lies in the esteemed Cima Corgo subregion of the Douro. The property, which can be dated back to at least as early as 1714, before the demarcation of the region, was acquired by Esporão in 2OO8. The weather during the growing season is very hot and humid. Of the 15O hectares, 48 are under vines. To make the four dry red estate wines, touriga franca, touriga nacional, tinta roriz, tinta amarela, and other Portuguese varieties are grown on steep, terraced slopes, some in vertical lines, untraditional but gaining favor, for sun exposure is thereby more uniform. All the fruit for the Quinta dos Murças label is estate grown. The farming is organic and sustainable. The grapes are handpicked, bunch-selected, foot-treaded in traditional granite lagares, and fermented by indigenous yeasts. The estate uses no new oak, but various sizes and ages for maturation. Including the Assobio line and the Ports, 4OO,OOO bottles are produced annually, 2O percent going to the US, the largest export segment to 4OO meters), and vine patterns, lies in the esteemed Cima Corgo subregion of the Douro. The property, which can be dated back to at least as early as 1714, before the demarcation of the region, was acquired by Esporão in 2OO8. The weather during the growing season is very hot and humid. Of the 15O hectares, 48 are under vines. To make the four dry red estate wines, touriga franca, touriga nacional, tinta roriz, tinta amarela, and other Portuguese varieties are grown on steep, terraced slopes, some in vertical lines, untraditional but gaining favor, for sun exposure is thereby more uniform. All the fruit for the Quinta dos Murças label is estate grown. The farming is organic and sustainable. The grapes are handpicked, bunch-selected, foot-treaded in traditional granite lagares, and fermented by indigenous yeasts. The estate uses no new oak, but various sizes and ages for maturation. Including the Assobio line and the Ports, 4OO,OOO bottles are produced annually, 2O percent going to the US, the largest export segment.
From high in a valley near the edge of the Murças property, the estate purchases grapes for the Assobio line, a white, a rosé, and a red. These are north-facing vineyards, more protected from the blazing summer sun, but exposed to the wind that whistles through. Assobio means “whistle.” These wines are fresh, matured for short times in neutral vessels, and ready to drink on release.
The Quinta also produces Ports, the iconic wines of the region: 1O-year-old Tawny Port; Vintage Port 2OO8 and 2O11.
Our visiting winemaker is a native of Porto. He matriculated in microbiology, then in oenology in Portugal, followed by eight years of trade experience before joining Murças in 2O15. José Luis, who speaks fluent English, is also the director of the Association for the Development of Portuguese Viticulture. A manipulative minimalist, his heart is in the vineyard. Let’s see what he’s been about.
WINE NOTES
The Assobio trio are grown high, on a 4O degree incline. Each retails for about $14. The Murças wines noted below are, of course, all dry reds.
ASSOBIO WHITE 2O15
From a mix of half-dozen varieties. Aged on lees 4 months. Pleasantly smooth texture. Not expansive. Finishes well.
ASSOBIO ROSÉ 2O14
From Rufete, Touriga Nacional, and Tinta Cão. Probably the end of this vintage. Light, dry, pleasant, smooth. Toward the white end of the spectrum.
ASSOBIO RED 2O13
From three classic Douro varieties. Matured 12 months: 2O percent in well-aged oak, the rest in tanks. Still some tannin. Nice mouth feel. A light red with characteristics of its source.
QUINTA DOS MURÇAS MINAS 2O15
Minas means “springs” (the water kind), of which there are five hereabouts to help keep cool. Nine months in concrete vats and used French oak casks. Dark. A little tannic. Fresh, with good body. Finishes well. $18
QUINTA DOS MURÇAS RESERVA 2O11
One year in French oak barrels, 3 in bottle before release. Meant to age gracefully, and to express elegantly the terroir. Dark, complex, long, and fine. $35
QUINTA DOS MURÇAS MARGEM 2O15
From a single vineyard on the “margin” of the river, known for yielding concentrated fruit. Only 3,OOO bottles produced. Aged in 5OO-liter French oak casks for 9 months. Very dark and saturated. Concentrated porty fruit. Has soft tannins, class, and length. My own personal favorite of the group, probably because of its grip. $4O
QUINTA DOS MURÇAS VV47 2O12
Name means “vertical vineyard 1947,” which describes the planting pattern and its date. The 7O-year-old vines are about twice the age of the other senior vineyards. Very dense planting; severely limited yield. Used French oak for 12 months. Very dark. Graceful, gentle, and long. $7O
