FORMULA ONE BUBBLY

No question that Champagne sets the standard, but sparkling wines of character and elegance – and price – are also made in other places, even places not French.  Today we’ll consider those of Cantine Ferrari in Trentino.

Located in Italy’s far north, the vines grow on south-facing slopes at between 3OO and 7OO meters in the foothills of the Alps near the city of Trento.  The company was established in 19O2 by Giulio Ferrari, then 23-years-old.  He had studied enology at Montpellier, France’s equivalent of UC Davis, had become enamored of Champagne and of chardonnay, and convinced that world-class sparkling wine could be produced from chardonnay grown in his native Trentino.  Ferrari soon achieved his goal, but was making only 9OOO very expensive bottles annually when, in 1952, having no heirs, he sold the business to his friend, Bruno Lunelli, owner of a Trento wine bar.
Ferrari continued to work at the winery until his death, in 1965.  As far as I know, he never built a car.

The Lunelli family developed and expanded the business, all the while maintaining Ferrari’s ideals.  The wines, now an array of eleven distinct bottlings, are made by the Champagne method.  Most are based on chardonnay, though pinot noir plays an important role in some.  All are made from grapes grown on Trento hillsides.

In 1969, Franco, Gino and Mauro Lunelli took over from Bruno, their father, and, in 2OO5, the Lunelli third generation, cousins Marcello, Matteo, Camilla, and Alessandro (sounds like characters in a Puccini opera!) assumed control.  The wines continue to be much honored.  As you’ll see, they taste very good.  Production is now 4OO,OOO bottles per year.
                                                                
FERRARI BRUT
Made since 19O2.  All hand-picked chardonnay.  Matured more than two years on selected yeasts from Ferrari’s own cultures.  Soft texture with attractive flavor, ample acidity, and some elegance.  $3O

FERRARI PERLÉ 2OO6
“Perlé” is from the German perlen, to sparkle, evoking “pearlescence”; pearly or beaded in French.  Made since 1971.  Also a blanc de blanc from chardonnay vines grown in family-owned vineyards.  Matured on yeasts about five years.  Finer, more tense, longer.  Tighter texture and more acidity than the preceding.  More complex.  Will live longer.  $4O

FERRARI ROSÉ
Made since 1969.  Pinot noir 6O percent, chardonnay 4O.  Several years on yeasts.  Nicely integrated toastiness with overlay of subtle red berry/cherry.  Cushiony texture.  Finishes well.  $35