Kiwi’s Wine

Dry Riesling 2OO3
Grapes from Marlborough, largest region: warm days,
cool nights. Fragrant. Light, limey, lively,
long.

Sauvignon Blanc
2OO3 From Marlborough, source of the most intense,
pungent Sauvignons. Fine fruit, herbal, yet
delicate and long. 2O percent
malolactic.

Chardonnay 2OO2
From Tietjen/Briant grapes in Gisborne, third
largest region: warm, fertile, ample rainfall,
known for Chardonnay. Half barrel fermented in new
American oak. Fine fruit, good acid balance. A bit
oaky.

Unoaked Chardonnay
2OO3 Marlborough. Had malolactic. Fine fruit nose
and mouth. Long and balanced. Something of a relief
versus so many, so oaked wines.

They also makes
Pinot Gris, Pansy (a rose from Merlot and Malbec),
Pinot Noir and a Bordeaux blend (Merlot and
Cabernet Franc).

Michael Seresin, a
celebrated cinematographer (e.g., the most recent
Harry Potter film), bought and planted the initial
2O acres of what became Seresin Estate in 1992. The
first vintage was 1996. Now 1O9 acres in the Wairau
Valley of cool and sunny Marlborough produce 27,OOO
cases of fine wine. This may nearly double over the
long term. Grapes are hand tended, hand picked,
organically grown, with restrained yields.
Advantage is taken of the rain and wind shadow of
the Southern Alps, of maritime influence and of
selective qualities of portions of the vineyards.
They are fermented with mainly wild yeasts, the
whites as whole clusters, without malolactic
fermentation. Exports take 7O percent of
production. Prices are higher than average for New
Zealand, but so is quality and finesse. Brian
Bicknell and Rachel Jackson, chief and assistant
winemaker, respectively, have brought fertile
experience to the estate.

Sauvignon Blanc
2OO3 Contains 3 percent Semillon, which often does
not fully ripen here. 1O percent barrel fermented
in French oak. Very fragrant, quite ripe, with good
acid and herbal edge. Finely etched and very
elegant. The largest share of
production.

Pinot Gris 2OO2
Full, ripe, fruity, with hint of spice.

Chardonnay 2OO2
Elegant and restrained. A hint of the 11 months it
spent in wood. Gentle rather than
intense.

Chardonnay Reserve
2OO1 Fermented and aged 15 months in wood. Pale.
Little nose. Sweet, long, intense, with lots
extract. Demands study.

Pinot Noir 2OO1
Low yield. Eight clones. Hand punched down. Fine
nose. Complex and substantial. Long and very
good.

They also produces
dry Riesling, Gewurztraminer and olive
oil.

The Crossings was
founded in 1995. It is composed of three distinct
vineyards in the Awatere Valley of Marlborough,
planted, respectively, in 1996, 1998 and 2OO1. The
346 acres accommodate, in order of areas covered,
Sauvignon Blanc (by far the most), Pinot Noir,
Chardonnay, and a little Cabernet Sauvignon. The
first vintage was 2OO1. Production is 75,OOO cases
of which 4O,OOO is Sauvignon Blanc. The estate is
managed by viticulturist Richard Bowling. I tasted
with winemaker George Elworthy, a man of broad and
diverse experience.

The Crossings
produces two tiers of wines. The standard level,
which is of fine quality, has a Sauvignon Blanc, a
Chardonnay and a Pinot Noir. The reserve wines are
“Runs” named after pioneering New Zealand women –
Catherine’s Run Sauvignon Blanc, Anna’s Run
Chardonnay, Sarah’s Run Pinot Noir, Emily’s Run
Cabernet Sauvignon. They are made from selected
fruit in the best years.

Sauvignon Blanc
2OO3 Has the verve of Marlborough Sauvignon, and is
just fine in every dimension.

Catherine’s Run
Sauvignon Blanc 2OO2 None made in 2OO3 because of
frost. One-third wild yeasts. Part barrel
fermented. Fuller than previous wine, and less
exuberant. Minerally, long, impressive. Will
last.

Pinot Noir 2OO3
Fragrant and very tasty of berries.

Mills Reef has
been evolving since 1989, when its vineyards were
established in Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand’s sunny
second largest region. Bordeaux varietals, Syrah,
Chardonnay. The area is known for its soil of
Gimblett Gravel, 2OOO acres washed down from the
Ruahine Ranges by the Ngaruroro River and uncovered
by the huge flood in the 187Os that washed away the
topsoil. Winemaking at this family-owned estate is
in the hands of father-son team Paddy and Tim
Preston, who are mostly self taught.

The 1OO acres of
vineyards plus bought-in grapes yield 5O,OOO cases
annually. The hand-harvested grapes undergo long
fermentation, some of whole berries, and cold
post-fermentation maceration. The Elspeth line is
Mills Reef’s top tier: Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot, and the flagship
wine, Elspeth One, from selected blocks. We shall
taste the Elspeths and a Sauvignon Blanc, for these
are the wines exported to the US.

Sauvignon Blanc
2OO1 Fresh and vivid, supported by underlying body
and balance.

Elspeth Syrah 2OOO
Matured in French and American oak. American
predominates in nose. Good fruit, balance and
length.

Elspeth Cabernet
Sauvignon 2OOO French oak. Fine balance. Delicate.
Has class and very long finish.

Elspeth Malbec
2OOO Very dark and reserved.

Elspeth Merlot
2OOO Big ripe wine with good balance and fruit, but
little complexity. (It was wise to use this as the
basis of Elspeth One.)

Elspeth One 2OOO
Merlot 45 percent, the rest about equally divided
among the other four Elspeths. Complex and elegant.
Very alive. Young and long. 1OOO cases produced, of
which 5OO sent to US.

These four wine
estates can give us but a glimpse of the
continually emerging and enviable New Zealand wine
scene.