Concannon’s Comeback

When
wines from California began to attract attention and gain a
following in large east-coast markets 35 years ago,
Concannon Vineyard was deemed worthy of respect. Tucked in
the Livermore Valley, to the east of San Francisco Bay,
alongside of Wente Brothers, it offered an alternative
source to the better known Napa and Sonoma wineries – far
fewer in those days. In the 198Os Concannon sank below the
radar, virtually disappearing from view and
memory.

Jim Concannon,
grandson of the founder, visited Boston recently, affording
a long overdue exposure to what was doing at the winery and
a tasting of several wines. Jim, formerly wine chemist and
winemaker, is consultant and ambassador for Concannon
Vineyard, now a part of the mammoth The Wine Group. A
historical review will help gain perspective.

The founding
James Concannon, an enterprising 18-year-old, emigrated from
Ireland in 1865, landing in New England, where he worked his
way from bellhop to hotel manager and attended night school.
After ten years, he traveled to California selling newly
invented rubber stamps, a popular precursor to typewriters,
and to Mexico, where he set up a street-cleaning company in
Porfirio Diaz’s capital. In San Francisco, after selling the
cleaning company, he realized that the production of altar
wines offered a promising opportunity, so bought land in
Livermore, imported vines from France, and took classes at
the University of California. With the establishment of
Concannon Vineyard in 1883, James became America’s first
Irish vintner, joining immigrants from further east. In
addition to producing wine, he sold vine cuttings to
Mexico.

James was
succeeded by his son, Joseph, who kept the business viable
through Prohibition by producing altar wine. He, in turn,
was succeeded by his sons, Joe Jr., now deceased, and the
Jim who just visited Boston. The business was serially sold,
starting in the ‘8Os, to Agustin Huneeus, to Deinhard, to
Wente, and, ultimately, it became part of The Wine Group.
The frequent changes of ownership helped neither the
stability of the business nor the quality and reputation of
its wines, but, as we’ll soon see, the ship appears to have
been righted.

Along the way,
Concannon planted petite sirah in 1911, the year of James’s
death. Concannon produced the first varietal bottling of
Petite Sirah in 1961, released in 1964, and continues to
make this gem. Concannon also helped to introduce a
Sauternes-like wine in 1934 and to develop particular clones
of cabernet sauvignon. Concannon employed Katherine Vajda,
California’s first female winemaker, in 195O.

Current
production is about 175,OOO cases annually. Adam Richardson
is the winemaker. Vineyard sources have expanded from the
Livermore Valley, particularly to the Central Coast. The
wines tasted and most of Concannon’s production are
designated Selected Vineyards. Also produced are small
quantities of wines designated Heritage and Limited Release.
As the tasting notes will attest, the quality of the wines
no longer deserves obscurity. They are all very tasty, and
still retain Concannon’s signature engaging soft style. The
packaging is most elegant, and the prices appear to be stuck
in a time warp of another age – ie, they are exceedingly
good buys. Concannon has been resurrected.