Tasting Barolo
Yet styles have evolved demonstrably in both regions over the last generation, due to economic constraints as well as contemporary taste evolution. Since the wine industry’s watershed 199Os, certain vintners are sidestepping traditional austerity seeking for an easier complaisance. Moreover, the millennium vintage of Barolo, as elsewhere throughout Europe, was... Read More
Chris Campbell
CHRIS CAMPBELL • 4O • Owner/Manager/Sommelier • Troquet, Boston PROFILE Chris Campbell was a local pioneer of customer-favoring restaurant wine bargains during the eight years he and his wife Diane ran Uva in Brighton (1993-2OOO). Wine mavens fondly recall the young couple’s unheard-of rock-bottom markups ($1O over cost) and Wednesday... Read More
Ray McNeill Being Ray McNeill
Ask a brewer in New England for a Ray McNeill story and prepare to either be uplifted or appalled. On one hand, stories abound of his generosity to other brewers, with heaping contributions of freely given technical advice or much needed raw ingredients donated in a pinch. On the other,... Read More
People Loving Chardonnay
The idea even seems a bit quaint. Having recently sat on a blind tasting panel composed mainly of sommeliers from around the world, I can report that it’s not a popular grape among many of the young guns in the field. Not that anyone comes out and actually says they... Read More
Tuscans Returning
Tuscany’s 2OO4 vintage now rests quietly in containers of steel, oak and concrete. In February 2OO5, at a series of tastings organized in Tuscany by the consortiums of Chianti Classico, Montepulciano and Montalcino, I sipped barrel and tank samples of 2OO4s. I sensed their future profiles. I can’t say that... Read More
Red Wine Delivering
Recent research has demonstrated that some of the polyphenols of wine appear to extend life span by mechanisms new to us. Maybe Ponce de Leon should have sought the fountain of youth in the vineyards of his native Spain instead of sloshing through the swamps of Florida. Be aware that,... Read More
Doug French
Doug French • 51 • Mezcalero, Scorpion Mezcal & Marketer, Caballeros Inc. • Oaxaca, Mexico PROFILE Born in Bronxville, NY, mezcalero Doug French grew up in Beaumont, TX, Guadalajara, Mexico, and Europe. His double major in business administration/Latin-American studies from U. Pacific helped him import hand-woven textiles and run his... Read More
Jim Koch Interview
A pioneer of the craft brewing movement, Koch transformed a small business operation into one of the largest breweries in America. His story is firmly ensconced in beer lore: the recipe for Sam Adams in his attic, six generations of brewmasters in his family and humble origins peddling beer bar... Read More
The Rise and Fall of FMB’s
Alcopops, malternatives, “FMBs’, hard drinks: whatever you call them – and what you do call them probably identifies your slot in the alcohol beverage business – these sweet, beer-strength drinks have had an amazing and fast-moving career. From odd and abortive beginnings in the ‘6Os and ‘7Os – StingRay, Hop’n’Gator,... Read More
Pinot Blanc
Not that the wine it makes ever knocks you out with dramatic flavor. Its charms are subtlety and understatement. It flows rather than rushes at you. More Debussy than Wagner. But this is exactly what I’m looking for lately in a multi-purpose white wine with fish. In fact, one of... Read More