Central Coast Wines
THE CENTRAL COAST IS OFF THE RADAR SCREEN.” said Ian McFadden, wine director at Marty’s in Allston. “Consumers have no idea where the Central Coast is or how the wines are different.” At the 2OO6 Boston Wine Expo, I decided to ask Central Coasters what comprised the Central Coast. I... Read More
Vino’s Still Populi
During the mid to late 199Os, the Italian wine industry had never seen it so good. Every year indicated steady growth on all fronts. Fantasy wines with virtual reputations and very real high price tags, waltzed into the marketplace. Producers increased their prices every year causing a domino-effect that ended... Read More
Tasting Vin Santo
Every year, in the first week of June, Tuscany’s Carmignano Consorzio presents its newly released vintages to journalists. By far the most interest is lavished on the prestigious local red wines, the Carmignano and Carmignano Riserva DOCGs, but Carmignano for its size (some 2O producers working some 5OO acres of... Read More
Pinot Noir
In the current film Sideways, the personality of the principle character, Miles, is identified with that of his favorite varietal wine, Pinot Noir. Many say, though it is arguable, that Pinot Noir is enhanced by the presence of low-level wine faults. Because Miles gets roaring drunk whenever he gets angry,... Read More
Terroir
I studied for the Master of Wine exam during the early 199Os. At that time, the concept of terroir seemed to be a flash point for all sorts of discussions. As a fledgling blind taster, I desperately wanted to know more about the connection between a wine’s organoleptic profile and... Read More
Syrah, Shiraz?
Syrah and Sirah have both become almost as common as Cabernet and Merlot. When I first started waiting tables in the late 197Os, however, it was Petite Sirah, not Syrah or Sirah, which first appeared on the restaurant’s wine list. The restaurant, which had cuisine with a Provence-Nouvelle cuisine theme,... Read More
Tuscans Returning
Tuscany’s 2OO4 vintage now rests quietly in containers of steel, oak and concrete. In February 2OO5, at a series of tastings organized in Tuscany by the consortiums of Chianti Classico, Montepulciano and Montalcino, I sipped barrel and tank samples of 2OO4s. I sensed their future profiles. I can’t say that... Read More
Discovering Vermentino
Vermentino is Italy’s best shot for an indigenous variety that could go international. Years ago, some journalists wagged their fingers at producers warning them that the name “Vermentino” could be confused for a diminutive term for “vermin”. But the trade and the public has, either mercifully or by chance, chosen... Read More
Oregon’s Pinot Noirs
My interest in writing an article about the Oregon wine industry came to life when some friends asked me to locate some older bottles of Oregon Pinot Noir for a dinner we would enjoy together. I soon learned that bottles from the 197Os simply did not exist here in the... Read More
Primivito? Zinfandel?
During the 197Os, the California wine trade touted Zinfandel as its very own grape variety while it was quietly aware that its origin lay somewhere else. In the last few years, researchers have discovered that not only has this variety had a longer commercial history in Italy where it is... Read More








