Hot Stuff
What
do Mojitos, Cosmopolitans, Yellow Tail, and Pinot Noir all
have in common? Besides being alcohol beverages, they are
examples of drinks that went from being merely popular to
virtually defining the cocktail culture of this decade.
Every year scores of new products are released with the
hopes of becoming the next big “it” drink. But cocktail
trends are funny things to predict. Some flash and fizzle
while others endure for years. And some of the biggest fads
there have been didn’t even come from new products; Pinot
Noir-mania was the result of one neurotic movie character
who eschewed Merlot in favor of Pinot. Likewise, Pabst Blue
Ribbon and Jagermeister are hardly new but they’ve both been
revitalized in recent years and enjoyed surprising sales
growth. On the other hand, the introduction of DeKuyper’s
Sour Apple Pucker all but launched the Apple-tini
phenomenon. Then of course, there are demographics. What’s
hot in one place can be stone cold in another. So what’s got
the retail and bar scene buzzing these days? We polled a few
of our experts for their take on what’s currently flying off
the bar and store shelves. From sake and Italian bubbly to
American craft vodkas and infused bourbons, here’s a look at
the hip gang of 2OO6 (and a few predictions for what’s to
come!).
To
put it plainly: sake is smoking.
And not the
warm, grimace-when-you-sip-it kind of sake either. From
flavored sake-tinis to chilled $4O-plus sakes, this is a
category that caught on fire over the last year and only
continues to grow, mainly in the chilled, higher end
department. Carri Wroblewski, co-owner of BRIX Wine Shop in
Boston’s South End, says that for them, the trend began last
year and was fostered by her own interest in the category.
She and her business partner have hosted a few sake tastings
in their store and the response from customers has been very
positive. In fact, they had over 1OO people at their first
sake event. For one tasting they decorated the store, had
Japanese snacks and even a Geisha pouring sake for
customers. Carri also reports that requests for private
in-home wine tastings have tripled over the last year. She
says, “Our clientele have a thirst for knowledge; they
really enjoy learning about new things.” The store currently
carries about 2O sakes (up from six), and the bulk of these
are to be served chilled. Carri comments, “Historically,
Americans know sake as hot but it’s as interesting and
intricate as the world of wine.”
Gary Park, the
owner of Gary’s Liquors in Chestnut Hill has also seen an
increase in sake sales. One of the reasons he believes it’s
doing so well is their proximity to some Japanese eateries –
there is a sushi restaurant located a couple of stores down
from Gary’s and they’re also relatively near to Oishii Sushi
Bar, the immensely popular Japanese restaurant in Newton.
Customers are seeking out nicer, more expensive sakes and
Gary likens their interest to that of single malt scotch
saying, “Many of today’s drinkers are willing to spend money
and like to try anything new.” At Blanchard’s in Allston the
demand is strong enough that the store carries about 4O
different sakes. Not only is there a large Asian student
population in the area, there are several Asian markets and
a Japanese restaurant nearby that drive sales. And people
aren’t buying the cheap stuff either. Kevin Lowenthal, the
Assistant Wine Manager says that their $4O sakes are selling
excellently compared to the $4O wine category. Similar to
BRIX, tastings at Blanchard’s have proven to be quite
useful. Lloyd Foster of Classic Wine Imports did an in-store
tasting for customers, and Charles River Wines hosted a
trade tasting at the Elephant Walk where they paired sakes
with cheeses and other foods not necessarily affiliated with
sake. For a trend such as this, with countless varieties,
price ranges and labels mainly in Japanese, an enthusiastic
and educated staff is vital.
Don’t like sake
straight? Try it in a cocktail. Though sake hasn’t gone
mainstream in Boston bars yet, many Japanese and
Asian-fusion restaurants are getting creative with
sake-inspired cocktails. At DouZo, a relatively new Japanese
restaurant in Boston, their menu features a diverse range of
sakes as well as some innovative cocktails such as the Tokyo
Cosmo (made with Hangar One Mandarin vodka, Hakushika sake,
triple sec, and lime and cranberry juice) and the Green Tea
Potion (made with Charbay Green Tea vodka, unfiltered sake
and a splash of green tea).
POPULAR
PICKS
Kaika
Junmai Ginjyo
Wandering Poet
Hakushika Junmai Ginjyo
Puchi Puchi Sparkling Sake
Who
says that tiny bubbles need to come from France?
Right up there
with sake as a hit-of-the-year is Prosecco, Italy’s version
of Champagne. No longer reserved for the rich and famous,
quality sparkling wines are much more approachable, and
affordable, than Champagne. Retailers all agree that
Prosecco’s pricing is one of the big reasons it’s doing so
well versus Champagne. Mike Cimini, President of Yankee
Spirits in Sturbridge and Attleboro remarks that it is
currently a very hot category. In particular, he says that
many people are enjoying it as a wine to go with food.
According to Gary, Prosecco is probably his hottest trend
right now. He says, “It’s more everyday. People know the
Prosecco name and they’re coming in to try it.” Santa
Margherita and Valdo are two Proseccos that are doing very
well at Gary’s. Kevin at Blanchard’s says that sparkling
wine has really become a year ’round item. On an average
day, the store sells about two cases of low-end sparkling, a
couple of bottles of Dom Perignon or Cristal and lots of
mid-range sparklers. Proseccos tend to fall in the $1O to
$2O range and Kevin says that there’s a big interest in them
as well as Spanish Cavas. Blanchard’s also carries a couple
of sparkling sakes that do quite well, particularly a
higher-end one called Puchi Puchi. BRIX too carries Puchi
Puchi and Carri states that it’s one of their top-selling
sakes. Proseccos, particularly Nino Franco, fly off the
shelves at BRIX, as do Cavas.
Joy Richard, the
Director of Operations at Tremont 647 in the South End
comments, “Prosecco in particular is very hip right now. We
only carry it by the bottle though, so we don’t sell as much
as we probably would if we had it by the glass, but I
definitely see a lot more people drinking sparkling wines
without tagging a celebratory feel to it. I personally love
sparkling wines, with or without an occasion attached. I
know Il Prosecco is very popular, because of its price point
and reputation.” Sparkling wines are also appearing in
specialty cocktails on drink menus around town. Bartender
Michael Ray, recently of Stella in the South End (he is
moving to Florida) is a big fan of sparkling wines and says
that Stella has four drinks on the cocktail menu with
Prosecco in them, including their Berry Punch with vodka,
cassis, pineapple and cranberry juice and
Prosecco.
POP
THESE PROSECCOS
Nino
Franco
Santa Margherita
Il Prosecco
Vivante
Valdo
It
wasn’t so long ago that Riesling was considered something
akin to White Zinfandel in the sophisticated wine drinker’s
opinion.
Today, it’s a
completely different ballgame. German Rieslings are really
catching on, as are Rieslings from America, Austria,
Australia, and New Zealand. Although there are a few reasons
for the surge in popularity, the last year saw a concerted
public relations effort on the part of Wines of Germany,
focusing on tastings, dinners and generating exposure
nationally. The effort was so successful that the
organization recently won the 2OO5 SABRE Award for Best
National Public Relations Program in the Food and Beverage
Category. What’s interesting about this trend is that it’s
pulling in wine drinkers from different groups. At Vinnin
Liquors in Swampscott there has been a spike in sales both
in the $1O-and-under wines as well as the $2O-plus
Rieslings. Manager Joe Fiore says, “Some people are trading
up from White Zin and Arbor Mist type wines while the
higher-end wine drinker is buying expensive Rieslings after
seeing a good rating number in wine advocate or wine
spectator.” He adds that nice weather definitely drives
Riesling sales. Gary Park agrees that Riesling is a good
crossover wine for someone looking beyond White Zinfandel.
He also notes that Rieslings go very well with Asian foods
and this has added to sales. In terms of good regions, Gary
says, “There are some terrific Rieslings coming from
Washington State, California, Oregon, and Alsace.” Kevin at
Blanchard’s sees great growth, particularly with Alsatian
Rieslings. When asked why the varietal has suddenly become
so hip, Kevin says, “I think that it has to do with
sommeliers and waitstaff recommending it more in restaurants
as well as more cooking shows and celebrity chefs using it.
Also, there used to be a mistrust of German wines as
unsophisticated but that notion has eroded.” He points out
that many popular wineries, such as Yellow Tail and J. Lohr,
are coming out with Rieslings. With their pre-existing
clientele, it’s an easy sell.
While Rieslings
haven’t yet caught on in restaurants quite like Pinot Grigio
did a few years ago, they are beginning to appear more
frequently on wine lists. Joy at Tremont 647 comments,
“Rieslings, especially from Alsace, are getting more and
more popular. Because the Alsatian Rieslings are less sweet,
and people are starting to know about this, they are
becoming almost a new varietal to most folks. There is a
trend away from sweet, big whites, to crisp and drier
ones.”
CHIC
RIESLINGS
Trimbach
J. Lohr
Chateau St. Michelle
Villa Maria
Dr. Loosen
S.A. Pruem
How
the lowly boxed wine category has risen.
There was a
time, fairly recently in fact, that wine in a box was
considered, well, square. With stylish new packaging and the
ability to keep wines good for weeks, boxed wines sales have
really taken off over the last year. Rest assured though –
this isn’t your Great Uncle Albert’s 5-liter box of cheap
Burgundy. What’s really helped the category is the fact that
quality wines from reputable vineyards are being packaged in
boxes. Mike at Yankee Spirits says, “Boxed wines are seeing
brisk sales both in the upper end category and the new Tetra
Paks.” He notes that specifically, Black Box is doing well
in his stores, especially since the price came down a bit on
them – to about $2O for a 3-liter box – and they reduced the
number of varietals. Though many still resist the stigma of
boxes, Mike says, “They’re totally comparable in quality and
clearly superior in packaging.” At Vinnin Liquors the Black
Box sells very well as does a smaller 1.5-liter box called
Wine Block from Kendall Jackson. These attractive blocks
retail between $8 and $1O, an ideal size for a test. Over in
Chestnut Hill, Gary reports that the boxed category is
“hot!” with Black Box and Hardy’s racking up the bulk of the
sales. In addition to nice displays, Gary says that the
brands have been putting up signs in the store that explain
the wines’ packaging and it’s been quite effective. Also,
in-store tastings have proven to be a great way to hook a
customer into buying a box to try it out.
HOT
BOXES
Black
Box
Hardy’s Stamp of Australia
Three Thieves
“Bandit” Tetra Brik
Block Wine
It’s
ruby-red, sweet tart to taste and, until recently, was known
mainly for its mythological lore and purported health
benefits.
Yes, it’s the
pomegranate and it’s been quite a hit on the drinks scene.
Bars all over are reporting that pomegranate martinis are
highly requested. Rich Bockelkamp, a bartender at Red Rock
Bistro & Bar in Swampscott, says that its popularity is
definitely spread through word of mouth; people hear about
them or see one and are intrigued. But the ways to make a
pomegranate martini, however, are seemingly endless. One
particularly enticing recipe comes from Joe Carbonaro, a
bartender at Via Matta in the Back Bay. He makes his with
real pomegranate juice, Stoli Raz, lime juice, and sugar.
Although there are several pomegranate products on the
market (Pearl released a pomegranate-flavored vodka a few
months ago and craft distillery Charbay is introducing one
this August), the real hype is from Pama, a liqueur made
from California pomegranates, vodka and tequila. A big hit
on the celebrity scene, Pama has quickly becoming an “it”
brand that happens to be very versatile for mixing with
spirits. Retailers in general have been impressed with the
pomegranate trend. Mike at Yankee Spirits says, “People are
excited about it. The vodka and Pama do very well as does a
pomegranate seltzer from Polar.” Additionally, Mike says
that the 32-ounce Pomegranate Mixer from Stirrings is on
fire (see sidebar).
IT’S
A HIT
Pama
Pomegranate Liqueur
LOOK
OUT FOR
Charbay
Pomegranate Vodka
Blueberry,
that summertime favorite, has been getting its fair share of
attention.
Stoli has been
promoting the release of its newest vodka – Blueberi. Though
too soon to tell (stores were only just beginning to carry
it as of press time), the word from bartenders and retailers
is that it’s going to do very well. Mike at Yankee Spirits
comments that it’s got a good taste profile and predicts it
will be particularly successful as a cocktail mixer.
Throughout Boston, Stoli has been actively promoting the new
spirit with special bartender events and recipe contests at
some of the city’s chicest venues. Michael Ray gave the
Blueberi his stamp of approval and anticipates that it will
be a recipe-driven success. Joe Gomes, the store manager and
liquor buyer for Blanchard’s observes that blueberry is a
great choice for a new flavor, particularly in New England
where the blueberry is beloved by many. He cites the success
that regional craft beers such as Sea Dog and Ipswich have
had with blueberry and anticipates strong sales for the new
vodka.
OTHER FRUITS TO
WATCH
Watermelon
Mango
Blood orange.
Flavored
spirits are certainly all the rage but true infusions, made
with real fruit, are really starting to grab people’s
attention.
A new line of
hand-crafted infused spirits, called Infusionique, from
Executive Chef Robert Fathman of Azure in Boston is creating
quite a name for itself throughout the area. There is a
lemon-orange-ginger rum, a mango-lime-pineapple tequila and
the decadent sounding fig-cinnamon-vanilla bourbon.
Currently, BRIX is the only retailer in the state to carry
the line, though many bars in and around the city serve it.
Carri speaks very highly of Infusionique, saying, “They have
great packaging, they’re high quality and delicious and they
sell fantastically!” She adds that the bourbon is excellent
to cook with. Also new to the scene is the mass-marketed 267
brand of infused spirits that includes a cranberry vodka,
chili pepper tequila, mango rum, and an olive and onion
vodka. Packaged in sleek oval bottles, the steeped fruits
are visible floating on the bottom and it makes for a very
appealing package. Joe at Blanchard’s says that the
cranberry and mango flavors sell very well but that it’s the
nice displays and packaging that really help to move it.
Gary’s and Yankee Spirits also report that sales have been
good though they too agree that the display is what catches
people’s attention initially. At Tremont 647, they have long
been known for making their own infused spirits. Joy
remarks, “Pineapple infused vodka is always a huge hit. I
think people are really attracted to pineapple drinks in
general, especially in the summer, but our other infusions,
which are raspberry vodka and papaya vodka, are almost
equally as popular.”
INFUSIONS
WORTH IMBIBING
267
Cranberry Vodka
Diabolique Bourbon
In
general, retailers and bartenders agree: vodka is still the
king of the drinks scene.
In a category
that is flooded with brands, there are some standouts that
consumers are starting to notice. Specifically, American
artisan vodkas, such as Triple Eight, Hangar One and Charbay
that use real, whole fruits, pure spring (sometimes even
glacier) water and no additives in their distilling, have
found a good niche with people who want, and will pay for,
high quality. Other new brands doing well in stores are
Reyka, a small-batch craft vodka from Iceland, and Zyr, a
Russian vodka that goes through nine filtrations, five
distillations and three tastings before bottling. Rich at
Red Rock says that when he introduces customers to Reyka
they really like it – although many of them don’t know about
it. But as many new products and flavors as there are,
retailers and bartenders alike report that Grey Goose is
still the powerhouse and shows no sign of slowing down. Rich
says that they pour a tremendous amount of Grey Goose at the
bar; it’s the featured vodka in many of their specialty
martinis and generally a preferred pick for
customers.
THOSE
CRAFTY VODKAS
Triple
Eight Cranberry
Hangar One Mandarin Blossom
Charbay Blood Orange
Zyr
Reyka
If
the last few years have shown anything, it’s that Americans
are willing to experiment with expensive spirits and they’ll
pay good money for them.
Specifically,
retailers are seeing an increase in high-end bourbons and
tequilas in the 25- to 35-year-old category. Gary says he is
just continually impressed with how interested the younger
clientele are in trying and buying high-end spirits. In
addition to bourbons and tequilas, single malt scotches and
cognacs are hot sellers at Gary’s. Joe Gomes at Blanchard’s
says, “Even with the shift in the economy, people will still
spend money on high-end brands. In fact, there’s even been a
slight but steady increase in high-end sales.” Rich at Red
Rock says that customers are definitely interested in
quality, observing that, “Customers are ordering more
high-end sipping tequilas like Patron, Milagro and Cabo
Wabo.” As an interesting aside, Heineken and Anheuser-Busch
have gotten into the super premium fray by recently released
Heineken Premium Light and Budweiser Select, luxury light
beers that they’re hoping will entice drinkers to trade
up.
SIPS
TO SAVOR
Gran
Patron Platinum Tequila
El Tosoro Paradiso Tequila
Corazon Tequila
Van Winkle Bourbon
Woodford Reserve Bourbon
Elit Vodka
Jean-Mac Vodka
Hendrick’s Gin
Plymouth Gin
Bacardi 8-Year-Old Rum
Ron Matusalem 1O-Year-Old Rum
Zacapa Centenario Rum
Think
the Mojito can’t possibly get any more popular?
Think again.
Though perhaps not a favorite drink of bartenders (they are
notoriously time-consuming to make and lightening-quick to
disappear), that hasn’t stopped Mojitos from dominating the
drinks scene. And it’s only going get bigger. Bacardi Rum
has launched a major Mojito marketing campaign featuring TV
commercials (have you seen the infectious “Muddle” spot?), a
special website, bacardimojito.com, recipes for flavored
Mojitos and more. Additionally, Bacardi Mojito is the
official cocktail of the new Miami Vice movie, all but
guaranteeing it to be the hot drink of the season. If Colin
Farrell and Jamie Foxx are drinking it, you can bet that
most of the women in America will be, too. Locally,
Excelsior in Boston has been running Make Your Own Muddle
nights this summer on Sundays and Mondays. Customers go to
the bar and select from mint, basil, honey, tangerines,
Champagne mangoes, muscat grapes, strawberries, raspberries,
and blueberries. Bartenders muddle them in with a choice of
Bacardi’s various flavored rums, Grey Goose, Tezon tequila
or Maker’s Mark bourbon. You can even get a Mojito when
flying Delta as the airline is now serving special Mile High
Mojitos featuring Stirrings Mojito mix and
Bacardi.
MUDDLE
THIS
Grapefruit,
lime and Bacardi Limon
Cucumber, basil and Hendrick’s Gin
Lychee nut and Grey Goose Vodka
While
it’s no secret that the beer industry has had a tough couple
of years, craft and New England micro brews have been
enjoying substantial growth as consumers have discovered
their complex and diverse flavors.
At Vinnin
Liquors, Joe remarks that, “Craft beer sales are huge.”
Though they sell a lot of high-end beer, Dogfish Head from
Delaware has developed a particularly strong following with
people even requesting the seasonal brews ahead of their
actual release. Joy at Tremont 647 says, “Harpoon Brewery’s
UFO Raspberry Hefeweizen is fantastic. It’s a bit tart, and
definitely not too sweet, so it has been appealing to beer
geeks as well as the common beer drinker. Craft beers in
general sell very well. We carry both domestic major label
beers and craft beers, and I would say it’s split pretty
well down the middle, if not craft beers selling better,
which is amazing, considering less than 1O years ago, there
was very little request for craft brews.” Although
Belgian-brewed Stella Artois isn’t a craft beer per se, both
Gary Park and Rich Bockelkamp report that customers are
really enthusiastic about it lately.
CRAFTS
& MICROS WITH KICK
Dogfish
Head
Harpoon
Sam Adams
Magic Hat
Allagash
Chimay Rouge
Duvel
No
one can help a new product better than creative
bartenders.
They can suggest
it to patrons, experiment with it and ultimately get people
to buy it in retail stores. In a great example of a
bartender having a direct effect on retail sales, Carri at
BRIX mentions Joe Carbonaro, the bartender at Via Matta. In
particular, customers who have been at his bar come into her
store looking for Vya, a high-end California boutique
vermouth that Joe uses in his Manhattans. Also, people have
been asking for Hendrick’s, a cucumber-rose petal infused
gin that Joe uses in some of his drinks. A bartender whose
opinion people respect can really turn a brand on. And
almost every retailer interviewed for this article stated
that it’s the bartenders who will generate the buzz and
ultimate retail success for Stoli Blueberi.
Speaking as to
what’s currently trendy, Joe says, “What’s popular right now
are house specialties.” People get to know a bar for a
particular drink and return for it. At Via Matta they are
known for their Basil Lime Gimlet, made with organic basil,
as well as a white peach sangria that Joe’s made at several
places he’s worked. But more than one brand over another,
bartenders are reporting that drink menus are what dictate
on-premise popularity. Both Michael from Stella and Rich at
Red Rock say that what they pour the most of are drinks off
their respective bar lists. Joy however has a different take
on today’s scene, “I think there is actually more of a ‘back
to basics’ trend. People are opening their minds to some of
the old favorites like Stoli and Smirnoff, cheaper beers
like Pabst Blue Ribbon and Miller High Life, and are leaning
towards whiskeys and bourbons (though the higher end are
more popular) like Buffalo Trace, Old Overholt Rye,
etc.”
In terms of
general trends, bartenders are using more fresh ingredients
such as real fruits, premium vermouths and bitters, as well
as herbs such as basil, mint and lavender. Additionally,
cucumbers have begun appearing in cocktails both as a
garnish and muddled into the mix. Who says they’re just for
salads?
HOT
BEHINDS
Peychaud
bitters
Vya vermouths
Homemade simple syrup
Cucumbers
Lavender
Basil
Realistically,
not every drink is going to be the next Cosmo.
The challenge is
to parlay popularity from being a drink du jour into
long-term trend. More than just tasting good, a drink has to
have buzz. Promotions and marketing certainly play a role in
generating exposure but bartender influence, word of mouth
and quality are ultimately what will keep a trend going
strong for years to come.
|
WATCH Wine in general BRIX’S VINNIN’S GARY’S YANKEE’S TREMONT |
STIRRING
THINGS UP
The popularity
of cocktails has prompted a whole trend of home-based
mixology. In a nod to an era gone by, people are stocking
their bars at home with everything from top-shelf vodkas and
gins to cocktail onions and olives. For the home-bartender
especially, the right mixer can make or break a drink.
Nantucket-based Stirrings line of all-natural cocktail
mixers, drink rimmers and bar ingredients has been doing
exceptionally well in retail stores. The company has come
out with mixer flavors such as Watermelon, Wild Blueberry
and Pomegranate that are designed to go with today’s hottest
cocktails. Each mixer has a Rimmer (to dip the glass rim in)
that complements its flavor. Pie Crustini goes with the
blueberry, a lime-mint sugar one for Mojitos, a blend of
dried peaches and sugar for Bellinis, and so on.
Blanchard’s, Gary’s, Yankee Spirits, and Vinnin Liquors all
carry the Mixers and Rimmers – and at each store the line is
doing fantastic. Additionally, Stirrings is beginning to
make the move into bars and restaurants such as Vox, the
Cottonwood Restaurant & Cafe, Armani Cafe, The Terrace
at The Boston Harbor Hotel, and Spire at Nine Zero Hotel.
Stirrings also has a Bar Ingredient line of Blood Orange
Bitters, Authentic Grenadine (made with pomegranate) and
Dirty Martini, as well as well as drink Essences such as
Hillside Lavender and Summer Basil that have been a bit hit.
Marketing Director Kristine Kaufman says, “The on-premise
channel has really embraced our lines, finding them to be a
higher quality, better tasting option that is easier to work
with behind the bar. We’ve gotten a lot of interest in the
Bar Ingredient line especially, and the mixers are
appreciated because of the depth of flavors and versatility
they offer. The Vox is doing some remarkable things with our
Mango at the moment.”
Though the
company is fairly small, they’ve been busy over the last
year generating substantial exposure for their brands.
Kristine remarks, “To date, word of mouth has been our most
widespread and effective marketing tool. Secondly, PR has
been our strongest means of building brand awareness as
we’ve found some great placements in a variety of consumer
and trade publications such as instyle, real simple, wall
street journal, (the Food Network’s) unwrapped, and many
more. We have also done a variety of experiential marketing
as we feel that the very best way to win someone over is to
let them taste the product. We just recently got back from
the Nantucket Wine Festival where we were a sponsor and
worked with them to present the Stirrings Cocktails &
Couture Fashion Show, featuring Cheryl Fudge. We do several
other events across the country as well, ranging from
shopping events (i.e. StyleFixx in Boston), to culinary
festivals, music, etc.” For more information visit
www.stirrings.com.
