Chianti Classico

For
many years, Chianti Classico has wanted little to do with
Chianti. From 1932 until 1996, Chianti Classico was legally
a subzone of Chianti. Chianti Classico, however, felt and
continues to feel that Chianti blemishes its image. The
overall standard of quality of Chianti is lower than that of
Chianti Classico. Moreover, the lower average pricing of
Chianti makes it difficult for Chianti Classico producers to
get the profit margin that they either need or deserve. I
have heard members of the Chianti Classico wine industry say
that they would simply like Chianti to disappear. On this
score, the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium did the best it
could when in 1996 it engineered a distinct and separate
DOCG for Chianti Classico. From that point on, the Chianti
DOCG had a hole in its appellation map, that hole being the
Chianti Classico DOCG.

Internally, too, there have
been divisions. As of 1987, the Chianti Classico Wine
Consortium divided itself into two organizations. One bore
its name. It controlled and regulated DOCG wine production
for subscribing wine producers. It also protected the use of
the title “Chianti Classico” worldwide for all Chianti
Classico produers. The other was the Historic Chianti
Classic Brand Consortium (Consorzio del Marchio Storico)
which reserved for itself the use of the prestigious and
well recognized black rooster symbol and conducted
promotions for members which had to be also members of the
Chianti Classico Wine Consortium. Chianti Classico producers
therefore had the option of subscribing to the Chianti
Classico Wine Consortion or to the combination of it and the
Historic Chianti Classic Brand Consortium. Those who wanted
to bypass these organizations could, by law, apply to local
chambers of commerce for alternative regulatory and control
functions for DOCG certification. Within the membership of
the Historic Chianti Classic Brand Consortium, there was a
schism of perspective between large bottlers (merchants and
cooperatives) and small estate producers. The cost of
subscription to membership was largely based on volume of
production. The greater financial contribution gave the
large bottlers more power in determining policies. Several
high-profile boutique estates shunned the Historic Chianti
Classic Brand Consortium, because of this lack of
representation and because they did not want to share the
promotional stage with large bottlers, who are associated
with down-market sales.

Liberatore explained to me
how a legislative decree of 2OO3 suddenly changed the
political and regulatory landscape of Chianti Classico,
putting it on a course that would very likely unite
producers under one symbol, the black rooster. Because the
Chianti Classico Wine Consortium had been by far the most
important controller and regulator of DOCG regulations,
governmental legislators selected it to be the sole body
with this role. First though, the consortium had to finish a
successful trial period, which it did in August of 2OO6.
Producers in Chianti Classico could refuse membership in
this new, more powerful, Consortium. Nonetheless, even these
non-members would be bound by their controls and
regulations. It is obvious to see that now there was a
powerful incentive to join.

The new consortium would
also be able to conduct generic promotions of Chianti
Classico wines. Participation in these promotions would be
open to all members. Faced with the new promotional mission
of the new consortium, the Historic Chianti Classic Brand
Consortium faced two options: either to become an
independent, privately funded marketing company or become
absorbed into the new promotional wing of the Chianti
Classico Wine Consortium. As of June 2OO5, the Historic
Chianti Classic Brand Consortium dissolved itself. Its
employees and offices were absorbed into Chianti Classico
Wine Consortium. It conferred use of the black rooster
trademark to the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium. The black
rooster would now assume a perch on all Chianti Classico
DOCG pink neck labels.

The effect of these changes
has been enormous and sweeping. The most important result is
unity and simplicity. Only one organization remains to do
the important work of regulating, controlling and officially
representing the interests of all Chianti Classico
producers. The ranks of the new consortium have swelled to
more than 6OO members, 35O of them bottlers. The members
today represent 95% of the production of Chianti Classico.
Many of the estates large and small that had refused to be
part of the pre-2OO5 Chianti Classico Wine Consortium have
become part of the new one. Symbolic of this change was the
July 2OO6 election of a new president, Marco Palanti,
co-manager of Castello di Ama. From 1993 to 2OO5, Castello
di Ama, one of the most prestigious wine estates in Chianti
Classico, had preferred to remain outside the Chianti
Classico Wine Consortium. Palanti, an enologist and
university professor, is known for his uncompromising
efforts to express terroir in the Ama wines. His presidency
symbolizes the new direction of the consortium. Marchesi
Antinori, who many believe to be the most important producer
in Tuscany, remains the significant holdout from membership.
Liberatore told me that he believes that the Antinori firm
is on the verge of joining the new consortium.

Liberatore indicated that
the merger has streamlined communication and eliminated
duplication. The new consortium is charged with monitoring
compliance with the regulations of the Chianti Classico DOCG
from vineyard to bottling. Liberatore told me that since the
new consortium has begun inspections, 5O% of the producers
have been inspected. He hoped that the job would be complete
by the end of the 2OO7. Once this is achieved, the goal
would be to inspect one fifth of the producers every year.
The most significant inspections are those which make sure
that 8O% of the vineyards are planted to Sangiovese. The 8O%
minimum reflects recent legislation raising the minimum
percentage by 5 percent. Many vineyards are suspected to be
out of compliance. During the 198Os, many producers had
planted Cabernet Sauvignon in their vineyards as a means of
giving Chianti Classico wine a more international
organoleptic profile. During the 199Os, many more rushed to
plant Merlot, which enriched Chianti Classico wine with less
impact on its aroma. Merlot is also easier to ripen than
Cabernet Sauvignon.

In September, I met one of
the new consortium inspectors. He confided that a well-known
Chianti Classico producer was forced to declassify many
vineyards to IGT production. The reason was too much Merlot
and too little Sangiovese. The inspector’s comment reminded
me of a movement of a small group of producers which, some
years back, proposed the creation of a DOCG “Super” Chianti
Classico category. This proposed category would allow
producers much greater varietal freedom in determining the
proportions of varieties in the Chianti Classico blend. They
proposed that the minimum required percentage of Sangiovese
in the blend be substantially lowered. Their motive, they
claimed, was to emulate territory over variety in the sense
that producers would be free to maximize the potential of
the terroir by using whatever variety they pleased within
those allowed for use within the region of Tuscany. As a
consequence, they argued, the best wines of the Chianti
Classico zone would bear the name of Chianti Classico,
instead of the fantasy names of the supertuscan category.
The Super Chianti Classico initiative, had it been realized,
would have legalized the vineyards now being rejected by the
inspectors.

Beyond internal regulation
and controls, the merger, Liberatore added, would enable
consumers to quickly recognize and understand Chianti
Classico wines. Consumers would now be able to instantly
identify all Chianti Classico wines by the well-known black
rooster symbol on the neck label. Furthermore, by the end of
2OO7, an identification number would be printed on the DOCG
neck label. Consumers could enter this number on the
Consortium website (www.chianticlassico.com) and view
results of chemical and sensory analyses of their wine as
well as the number of bottles produced and other
data.

The new consortium has been
working on another of its mandates, protection of the use of
the name, “Chianti Classico”. The former Chianti Classico
Wine Consortium had requested registration of the Chianti
Classico name internationally and in Italy. In December
2OO5, the Italian Patent and Trademark Office reported that
the registration process had been completed. The new
consortium is continuing this work. On March 3O, 2OO6,
thirty foreign countries, including the US, had validated
the mark. Rowing in the opposite direction, Liberatore
recounted a conference he had attended in Washington, DC, in
March 2OO7 in which the European Union awarded Napa Valley a
Denomination of Origin.

When I visited Chianti
Classico in February 2OO5, the spirits of producers had been
at a low point because the bulk price of Chianti Classico
grapes had sunk to unsustainable levels. The price was
between 12O to 14O euro per quintal, a price which made it
difficult for grape farmers to make a living. The consortium
stepped in and called for a 2O% reduction of yield of the
generous 2OO4 vintage. This action helped stabilize the
oversupply situation. The market for Chianti Classico has
gradually strengthened in subsequent years. This was
particularly the case in the US, which in 2OO6 became the
first market for Chianti Classico ahead of even the home
Italian market. The popularity of Chianti Classico in the US
is remarkable given the deteriorating exchange rates which
have caused retail prices here of European wines to increase
and all margins to be reduced. Overall there has also been a
1O% improvement in both the domestic and export prices. 2OO6
statistics showed an increase of 13% in world sales over
those in 2OO5. Liberatore remarked that the bulk price has
risen steadily to about 3OO euro per quintal. He spoke of
improvements in the German and UK markets. There has been an
explosive boom in several new markets, particularly Russia.
Paolo De Marchi of Isole e Olena told me that large sales
and excellent margins can be made there provided that a
producer develops a relationship with an honest and diligent
Russian agent or importer. Liberatore mentioned that Chianti
Classico producers are now more “confident” to enter the
Indian market. There have been “some successful entries”
into the Chinese market. Other rapidly improving markets are
Poland and Denmark.

The former Chianti Classico
Wine Consortium began the Chianti Classico 2OOO project in
1988. Now its work is finished and the results can benefit
all Chianti Classico producers. It studied clonal selections
of Sangiovese and other indigenous grapes, rootstocks,
planting density, vine-training systems, and soil management
methods. With a majority of the old vineyards planted in the
197Os now replanted with the benefit of the Chianti Classico
2OOO research, the new generation of Chianti Classico wines
can express Sangiovese in a style more easily appreciated by
the world market. The new wines will be deeper in color with
more texture in the mid-palate. Liberatore believes that
producers will rely more and more on Sangiovese and less and
less on supporting “international” varieties such as Merlot,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. He predicts that the Riserva
category will become more important and will grab attention
and market share away from the supertuscan
category.

The 2OO7 harvest, he
proclaims, is “ottimo” (great). On this score, I can vouch
for him since my fifth Winemaking Workshop in Tuscany in
mid-September harvested Sangiovese grapes and left Tuscany
ten days later with a very fine infant Sangiovese in barrel.
An unseasonably mild and dry winter initially had caused
concern. The vines however made it safely through April when
they are usually vulnerable to frost damage. Rain in June
and August combined with excellent weather during the
harvest period helped assure a Sangiovese crop which came in
fully-ripe and free of disease. Combined with the fine
harvest of 2OO6, we now have back-to-back stellar vintages
of Chianti Classico to look forward to. What better starting
point for the new unified Chianti Classico Wine
Consortium!