A DRINK WITH Bartender MICHAEL RAY of the Fairmont Copley Plaza’s Oak Long Bar
IF YOU’VE HAD a cocktail in Boston in the last two decades, it’s more than likely Michael Ray made it for you at least once – twice, if you’re lucky. A staple ‘behind the stick’ for over 2O years, Ray has been a friendly face at some of the city’s most iconic bars: Abe & Louie’s, Joe’s American, Vox, Smith & Wollensky, Stella, Bokx 1O9, Towne, and Forum – just to name a few. He now crafts classic cocktails at hotspot Oak Long Bar at the Fairmont Copley Plaza where he gets to see familiar faces as well as act as Boston’s unofficial cocktail concierge to guests. Ray also works as a consultant to Fruitations, a locally-based craft soda and cocktail mixers. I couldn’t think of a better person to have a drink with than Ray, whose experience and passion are why I love this industry.
BRANDY RAND You are well-known (and loved) in the Boston bartending community; take me through how you got started and where you’ve been:
MICHAEL RAY I’ve been in this business for 26 years, three of those were out of state. I started as a doorman, bar back and doing security at a college bar near Northeastern University. I also worked at M8O, Paradise Rock Club and Man Ray. My first “big boy” restaurant was opening Joe’s in Braintree – what a beast that was! And so began my run with the Back Bay Restaurant Group [now Tavistock Restaurant Collection]. I bar manager everywhere from JC Hillary’s, Abe & Louie’s, Charlie’s, and Vox – I loved to be in it fully! I worked at Black Fin Chophouse for Tony Ambrose brfore opening Smith & Wollensky while working at Stella during the same time period. I left Boston to get married but came back after a few years and went back to Vox and Bokx 1O9. I then managed the bar at Towne, butleft to run the beverage program for Boston Nightlife Ventures and worked the bar at Forum. Now I’m at Oak Long Bar, which is the first time in a while that I’m not in a supervisory or management position.
BR What is your most memorable night behind the bar?
MR I was working on my birthday at Smith & Wollensky in the Castle on October 27, 2OO4 – the night the Red Sox won the World Series! Champagne was flowing, money was flowing, and I walked home with cash and bottles of Champagne that were bought for me. The other nights I wouldn’t mention in a public forum . . .
BR What’s the most important thing you’ve learned as a bartender?
MR Be honest and true to the guest and yourself and have fun. Ninety percent of people who sit at a bar want interaction, knowledge or something – you just have to take the time read them.
BR When an out-of-town guest asks you where they should continue their drinking, where do you send them and why?
MR If they want to stay in the Back Bay, I send them to Forum. It’s now a part of our history, plus I still love that staff (ask for Jose). Also, Bukowski’s for a beer and a hot dog, and Scampo – love Chef Lydia and her bar staff. But my go-to is Tavern Road. The cocktails are great but it’s the bar staff and ownership that sell it for me – fun time.
BR What is your favorite cocktail to make?
MR Not sure if I have a true favorite, I love the mechanics of making any Manhattan-style cocktail. But I’m also pretty old school, and off-menu for a bunch of ladies looking for something fun works!
BR Cocktail you wish would go away?
MR Bye-bye apple martini . . . it’s not the 199Os anymore.
BR What’s the most exciting new beer, spirit and/or wine brand you’ve tasted?
MR Berentzen apple infused Bourbon screams fall/winter cocktails and versatility.
BR If you could travel anywhere in the world to learn more about a beer, wine or spirit, where would you go and what would it be?
MR Since I presently work at the Fairmont I would love to go to the American Bar at the Savoy in London, the Bar at Raffles in Singapore or the Fairmont at St. Andrews to experience their Scotch dinner and tasting – maybe get a peek into the mystique of the Scotch society.
BR Most inspirational fellow bartenders to you and why?
MR Josh Childs, a true friend and pioneer, but it’s his demeanor that is worth its weight in gold – the guest gets the host every time. Also Jackson Cannon and Tom Mastricola – not because they helped forge the path, but because they’ve learned balance in work and life and family and hold me at the same level as them. Ryan McGrale, John Drew, John Henderson, and the crew of others that are not newbies but young enough to still have that energy and soak up knowledge . . . and their mechanics are fun and nice to watch. Michael Stevens, Emma Hollander and the class of bartenders who host a party every time they are behind the stick, getting it done and showing love to all.
BR Best book on bartending?
MR I watch and speak to other bartenders from all types of bars. I have books from Death and Co. to Mr. Boston. The books will give you recipes and ideas but bartending is hands-on, even home bartending.
BR You just ended a shift, what’s the first thing you do?
MR Honestly, I take a breath and sit. It takes a while to decompress from a busy day or night and to shut off that “bartender” switch. On occasion, I stop and have a final cocktail or go home and pour an aged rum on the rocks.
BR What drinking trends do you predict for 2O15?
MR More natural spirits coming out – not necessarily organic – and a return to basics in cocktails. Brown spirits are here to stay but I think it now belongs to a select community of industry folks who drink Vieux Carres and Boulevardiers. A beer and a shot is still a go-to for many.