Chablis
It’s
ironic that Chablis, a geographic place name adopted to
adorn jugs of standardized branded blends for the last
several decades in the US, is actually among the most
distinctive and inimitable wines produced anywhere. The
signature aroma and flavor of its wines are even “more
unique” than those of most other French AOCs. That is so
both because this small commune attached legally to Greater
Burgundy experiences forbiddingly cold weather during the
growing season, and the fact that it is covered with soils
that are predominantly chalky clays. These conditions
combine to impart mineral essences to authentic Chablis that
are impossible to duplicate elsewhere. Quintessential with
simply prepared white fish, the wine is a staple of seafood
restaurant lists and is especially prized as an
accompaniment to raw shellfish.
At least that is the case
with what we’ll call “classic” Chablis. As the cult of
ripeness, or ultra-ripeness, sweeps the international wine
palate, it’s not uncommon to taste Chablis now that is
moderate in acidity and fuller in body. This is, in part,
attributable to the uncommonly warm growing seasons that
Europe has experienced generally over the last fifteen
years, in part to later harvesting, in part to higher
yields, and finally to winemaking techniques that emphasize
extraction over terroir. Wine is fashion and today producers
have more power to sculpt their product in conformity to the
market’s stylistic demands than ever before. The problem for
me is that there are innumerable regions churning out
reasonable tasting Chardonnay. There is, however, only one
Chablis. It’s disappointing, therefore, when I taste a wine
that originates in this area and it’s virtually
indistinguishable from others that come from warmer regions
with less markedly calcareous soils. In my opinion, Chablis
should be special. At the very least, there is no reason
Chablis should ever taste flat.
These wines all fit the criteria I’ve laid out to one degree
or another. My blind tasting panel chose them over others
that were equally well made but did not have the
characteristic “cut” we were looking for. I’m not a blanket
opponent of wood in the production of Chablis, especially at
the higher levels (Premier or Grand Cru), but the key is
that the oak must be in service to the terroir rather than a
dominating presence. It’s difficult to use barrels,
particularly new ones, at the village level and produce a
wine that is clean and clear and full of liveliness.
Especially when it is obvious, wood flavors tend to
overwhelm the delicate charm of Chablis. So whereas several
of the following blind tasting winners were either fermented
or aged in wood vessels, none of them show a marked oak
influence. As usual,
these are presented in ascending order of preference.
LE
CHABLISIENNE
PETITE CHABLIS 2OO5
Which old college socialist wouldn’t root for a “co-op” wine
to win a blind tasting? In truth, despite the real allure of
estate-bottling, there is nothing wrong with cooperative
agriculture. To snobs and romantics who insist that only
estate bottled wines are worthwhile, we offer the example of
Alsace and Chablis. Some of the most delightful, reasonably
priced examples have come from these collaborations among
growers. Le Chablisienne is renowned for making one of the
great value wines of France. This example was low key almost
to a fault. It is
actually not Chablis at all, but a category rarely seen in
the US denominated “Petit Chablis”. It originates on soils
that are not the classic “Kimmeridgian clay”. In other
words, a bit heavier and less differentiated with limestone.
It was good, solid, earthy, a bit apple-like in flavor, but
not nearly as nuanced as those to follow.
$17
DOMAINE
LOUIS MOREAU
CHABLIS 2OO5
Also from the freakishly hot 2OO5 vintage, this estate
bottled wine is all about the vineyard and comes across a
bit shy on the fruit. It’s what most tasters would call
“bone dry”. Appealing, if not quite complete, this is the
product of a sixth generation grower, not to be confused
with other famous producers bearing the same surname who ply
their trade in Chablis as well. Burgundy,
as a whole, is quite inbred
and Chablis, especially so. But this wine bears no
resemblance to those from the other Moreau businesses I
tasted. Its aromatics are earthy and a touch herbal, with
some mushroomy qualities. On the palate it is a bit cutting,
not excessively ripe at all. In fact, it’s just the
opposite, quite blunt in style. There is good length on the
finish. This is for lovers of uncompromisingly steely,
somewhat aggressive Chablis with a decided citric edge.
$22
SIMMONET-FEBVRE
CHABLIS 2OO4
This wine is straightforwardly lemony in aroma and flavor,
which to me is high praise. It has a faint vegetal edge, a
suggestion of apples, and on the palate comes across as
quite tart. Clean, direct and pure, it has a lingering
somewhat weighty presence on the palate, with very fresh
acidity. I am an unabashed fan of the 2OO4 vintage for white
Burgundy, particularly Chablis. To me the wines are much
more satisfying, with better structure, than the more
brilliantly ripe 2OO5’s. This
is a minority opinion. A
wine like this shows what is admirable about the cooler 2OO4
harvest: &endash; understatement, purity, intensity. A wine
to wake up sleepy palates. $1O
JOSEPH
DROUHIN
CHABLIS 2OO5
A renowned Burgundy producer with an especially strong
presence in Chablis, Drouhin’s wine is enticing with its
citric, apple, earthy aromas and bright acidity. Perky and
tart, this is not a terribly subtle Chablis, but one that is
absolutely correct, with penetrating green apple fruit
flavors. Despite being from the 2OO5 vintage, it will not
disappoint you as an introduction to the classic style.
Light to medium bodied, with lingering mineral accents, this
is a wine for broiled scallops or lightly seasoned shrimp.
$18
CHRISTIAN
MOREAU
CHABLIS 2OO5
This is also an estate bottled wine. A cut above all of the
previous entries, it has a subtle minerality on the nose,
with lemon and floral essences balancing out the earth
scents. On the palate the wine is smooth and creamy, with
low key but persistent fruit intensity. Layered and precise
in flavor, this Chablis is the only one in my tastings that
scored well despite showing traces of wood influence. Here
the oak serves as an understated sidelight rather than a
dominant influence. Traditional Chablis, balancing soft
texture and lingering mineral flint notes on the finish,
this would be a great shellfish wine. $25
DOMAINE
VOCORET
CHABLIS 2OO5
This is really exciting, a wine with a full blown lemony,
green apple, sweet herb perfume. Fresh and delicate, but
also dramatically tart and piercing on the palate, this
estate bottled bottling is all about balance. It had the
highest level of unapologetic acidity among all the wines I
tasted yet there was something also gentle on the palate.
Inspiring in its purity and flavor persistence, this Chablis
may be bracing on the palate but is all about balance. Fish
with some influence of capers is a great choice to match it.
$22
LOUIS
JADOT
CHABLIS 2OO4
Isn’t it terrible when the most expensive wine turns out to
be the best? It sort of
shakes your faith in blind tastings. Although, to be fair,
while this amounted to my favorite choice, it was not the
consensus pick of all tasters. What I liked about it was its
impeccable proportions, no hair out of place. It had an
extra dimension of mineral flavor as well, with a salty,
mouthwateringly lemony tang lasting well into the finish.
Having followed the renowned house of Jadot for a long time,
it came as a surprise to me that they even made Chablis, as
I had never encountered it before. New to the American
market, this wine is aged in barrique, although you might
never suspect it from the palate. Complete, tart and
lingering, you can recommend this with grilled fish, as well
as the more natural lighter seafood preparations.
$25
