ROSÉS FOR ALL SEASONS
By Seema Tikare
Rosé wine seems to have a bifurcated reputation – you love it or hate it. On one branch are the folks who love rosé as it evokes magical summer evenings. The glass reflecting the colors of sunsets over the ocean. The chill of a cold drink on a balmy, breezy terrace. The tart, refreshing flavors of strawberries and cherries paired with summer seafood and fresh, grilled vegetables. But then, there is the other set of folks. Rosé is an abomination propagated by the philistines who brought us white zinfandel and Lancer’s Rosé – a cloyingly sweet syrupy pink. And ne’er the twain shall meet.
While I am as much a snob about white Zinfandel and pink Moscato as any other wine writer, I have had my own prejudices about dry rosés too. Rosé tends to be lean and tart, when sometimes I want something chilled, soft, and more versatile. In the summer, I tend to choose from a variety of whites that can deliver a whole spectrum of flavors and aromas that pair with just about anything, including miso marinated flank steak tacos. But I keep having to be reminded that rosé is not one dimensional. Nor are the lean, crisp, onion-skin-colored rosés of Provence the end all, be-all of the genre. There is a whole world of wonderful rosés out there that come in fruity, fuller-bodied, darker and lighter colors, and with loads of character.
Part of the reason for this is that rosé can be made with any number of red and black grape varieties – from Cabernet Sauvignon to Mourvèdre to Sangiovese. Another reason is that it can be produced from a few different methods. First is direct pressing – where the color and juice are squeezed into the fermentation vessel at once, giving the wine a very light color. Second is a technique called saignée, pronounce “senyay”. It means to bleed, which is precisely what the winemaker does – she bleeds the excess colored juice out of the fermenter so that what remains on the skins can become darker and more concentrated. Then, rather than discard the bled-off juice, the must is fermented separately to make rosé. Finally, there is short maceration, which means leaving the must on the skins from a few hours to 2 days to color the wine lightly, pressing off the skins, and then fermenting as usual for a white wine. Each of these techniques imparts a different character to the wine because it also includes the judgment of when to harvest the grapes (fully ripe for saignée or slightly underripe for traditional rosé), as well as the choice of yeasts and fermenting vessels and so forth. As a result, we have a huge selection of rosé wines that are perfect for the transition from summer porch pounders to fall sippers. Below is a selection of wines that go beautifully with a number of foods, moods, and cooler temps.
2O23 FEUDO MONTONI NERELLO MASCALESE ROSÉ DI ADELE, CAMMARATA, SICILY, ITALY
There are very few lovelier couples than Fabio Sireci, the owner and winemaker at Feudo Montoni and his wife, Melissa Muller, accomplished chef and cookbook author. They are warm, welcoming and meticulous in their care of their land, their wines, and their food. The Sireci family have owned the winery since 1469 and the expertise and dedication shows. This rosé, named by his father for Fabio’s mother, Adele, shows the love. The pale pink-bronze wine is filled with notes of blackberries, pomegranate, black pepper, and dried violets. Though light in color, it has a strength of character that will be perfect for the cooler nights of September. Pair with grilled pork and grilled peaches. Available from MS Walker.
2022 VOYATZIS KTIMA VOYARZI ROSÉ, MACEDONIA, GREECE
If you can struggle through the pronunciation, this wine is worthy of a taste. Or three. It is made in a modern winery established by the Voyatzi family in the early 1990s by Lake Polyfytos in western Macedonia. They are dedicated to showcasing the wonderful varietals of one of the most ancient wine cultures of the world. The wine is made with a blend of Xinomavro, Moschomavro and Tsapounakos. As exotic as these varieties sound, the Tsapournakos is thought to be a clone of Cabernet Franc, so one can imagine the floral notes it brings to the wine. This light peach-colored wine is full of notes of cherries, dried bitter herbs, red currant jam and spice. They say that wines are best paired with the local cuisine, so I would choose grape leaves, lamb with tzatziki, and one of my favorites, moussaka. Available from Yiannis Distributing Company.
2O22 VON WINNING ROSÉ OF PINOT NOIR, DEIDESHEIM, PFALZ, GERMANY
A rosé from Germany is a relatively unusual wine because until recently, it has been difficult to ripen red varieties so far north. However, Pfalz is one of the warmest wine regions of Germany and has seen great success with its Pinot Noir or “Spätburgunder” (pronounced schpate-burgunder) wines. The “spät” in the name refers to the late ripening of this burgundy grape. Because the region is known for its sunny, dry climate in the summer, this type of wine is a huge hit for Von Winning. It is a lovely light pink color, has all the delicacy and beauty of Pinot Noir’s roses and violets, cherries and raspberries yet retains that crisp acid balance that makes you go back for more with each sip. It is again, perfect with many German foods, like roasted potatoes, spätzle, and of course, schnitzel. Available from Atlantic Beverage Company.
2O23 DOMAINE LAFAGE MIRAFLORS GRENACHE / SYRAH ROSÉ, COTES CATALANES, FRANCE
Domaine Lafage is a wonderful winery from a little known (in the US) area of France’s Roussillon region called the Côtes Catalanes. As the name implies, it is near the border between France and Spain in a warm area with hills and Mediterranean breezes that cool off the vineyards at night to retain acid while allowing the grapes to ripen slowly. This wine is made with a blend of Grenache Gris and Grenache Noir grown on 80-year-old vines and Mourvèdre from 25-year-old vines. The darker grapes give it a slightly darker hue than the traditional “onion-skin” color of Provençal rosés. And the old vines impart a concentration of peach and strawberry while retaining the minerality and acid that keeps the wine fresh and delicious. It is perfect with grilled shrimp, sushi, and swordfish. Available from MS Walker.
2O23 CLINE CELLARS MOURVÈDRE DRY ROSÉ, CONTRA COSTA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA
Despite being a wine from a warm, long-season area such as Contra Costa Country, California, and despite being made with a powerful grape like Mourvèdre, this rosé is crisp and delicate. Perhaps that is why they named it a “dry rosé.” Mourvèdre, also known as Mataro or Monastrell in Spain, is a mediterranean variety known for its ability to tolerate heat and dry conditions. When the Clines set out to make wines, they decided to rehabilitate 100-year-old vineyards in order to take advantage of the concentration and intensity of fruit these old vines produce. This rosé shows both the complexity one gets from old vines but also what results from a long growing season with warm days and cool nights. Delicacy in this instance does not mean lacking in flavor or aroma – it means beautiful notes of plum, red fruit, anise, and spice. It is perfect as a before-dinner aperitif or as a pairing with fresh flounder or sole. Available from Classic Wine Imports.
2O23 E. GUIGAL COTES DU RHÔNE ROSÉ, SOUTHERN RHÔNE, FRANCE
This rosé is both darker than all the others discussed today and richer. At 14.5% alcohol by volume, this wine is a behemoth. The Guigal family has a storied history of making some of the most famous wines in all the Rhône and it shows in this wine. It is not unbalanced or too “hot” as high alcohol wines can be. Properly chilled, this wine is in fact delicious. Opulent with raspberries, strawberries, and red currants, it also shows notes of black pepper and lovely textural minerals that fill the palate. This is a rosé that drinks like a red wine, so pair it with anything from Lasagna to a thick steak. Available from Classic Wine Imports.
