Wines of Sardinia

Sardinians,
according to Nicolas Belfrage, refer to mainland Italy as
the “continente”, and regard wines sold there as exports. In
some ways, Sardinia (Sardegna in Italian) has more in common
with Corsica, the French outlier just to its north, than
with the rest of Italy. This second-largest of Mediterranean
islands (after Sicily) is Italy’s most remote region
geographically, and, with Norway, one of the geologically
oldest portions of Europe.

Traces of civilization here
date back 56OO years. Sardinia has sustained almost as many
incursions, invasions and occupations as Sicily, though few
have stuck. Some brought grapes and left ethnic traces.
Among the most vinously important were Phoenicians and
Carthaginians, Greeks, Romans, Spaniards (especially
Aragonese), Piedmontese, and, more recently, a squad of
flying enologi. Wine has been made here since at least the
eighth century BCE, brought by Phoenician traders. Spain,
which ruled from the 14th to the 18th century, was the other
major past influence. One might wonder why some of the same
grapes are not shared with Sicily. The local language,
Sardo, is like Catalan with bits of Arabic and Basque mixed
in.

Only 1.6 million people
live on this island of 92OO square miles, which is mostly
rugged upland terrain. The Campidano plain, between Cagliari
and Oristano in the southwest, is the main agricultural
area. Sheep and goats, wheat and barley, grapes and olives,
cork, tobacco, minerals, and, at least in the past,
brigandage, support the population, along with less fishing
than one might imagine and little industry. (The name,
Sardinia, may be derived from the Shardane, an ancient tribe
originating in Asia Minor, speculates Burton
Anderson.)

The dry, sunny, hot climate
is good for vines, but not so the scirocco, the fierce North
African desert wind of late August. Hills and trees can form
protective windbreaks. Cooling moist marine breezes,
especially in the northeast, are helpful.

Large day/night temperature
excursions give many wines aromatic qualities. Vineyards are
mostly planted at lower levels. It would be wise to consider
planting the abundant fallow higher slopes. Irrigation is
becoming more prevalent. Traditional low-bush, head-trained
alberello planted in high density has been successful.
Vertical trellis systems risk overproduction unless
controlled. Soil varies with location, in some areas almost
every few meters. Granitic, volcanic, alluvial, aelic, and
limestone soils form an irregular, sparse, loose, and poor
patchwork. Were there a market for them, rocks would be a
major product. Micrclimates and slopes also vary widely.
There is no general Sardinian terroir.

The hot and dry northwest,
around Alghero, must limits yields from its varying soils.
The pergola sarda trellis delays ripening to achieve
balance. Gallura (from gall, Egyptian for “high plain”) in
the northeast finds vineyards high and rocky – planted in
soil based on decomposed granite. Heat is not excessive;
humidity is adequate. This is the home of the vermentino
grape and the cork oak. The granitic Gennargentu massif in
the eastern hills, cooled by northeastern breezes off the
sea, is the center of cannonau cultivation. West central
vineyards have no unifying theme. The Campidano plain in the
southwest may be too fertile for fine wine. The coastal
sandy soil of Sulcis, the hot, dry southwest corner of the
island, yields carignano of laudable richness.

Many of the grapes of
Sardinia are of Spanish origin, some were likely brought
from the Middle East or Greece. A few seem to have always
lived in Sardinia. I shouldn’t be surprised to learn that
grapes thought to date back a few hundred years, to the
Spanish rule, for example, are found to have been in
Sardinia for longer. “International varieties”, such as
Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot, and Chardonnay, and
barriques are recent immigrants, but the majority of wines
are based on hand-tended Sardinian grapes. I must agree with
Anderson: “the grandest wines . . . exude old-fashioned
strength of character.”

Let’s nibble through the
grape varieties we are likely to encounter. We’ll start with
white. Malvasia Sarda Probably brought by Byzantines from
Greece. Most notably grown around Bosa, in the west, for
dry, sweet and fortified wines which seem to be vanishing.
Moscato Bianco Same as Moscato di Canelli of Piemonte and
Muscat Blanc a Petits – grains of many elsewheres. Dry
spumante in Gallura, sweet wines elsewhere. Nasco
Indigenous. Grows in the Campidano. Dry/off-dry and,
especially, sweet late-harvest wines. Nuragus Perhaps
brought by Phoenicians. Popular since antiquity. Named for
the nuraghi, the mysterious prehistoric stone towers that
spice the island. The most planted grape. Naturally high
yields. Wines mostly at best refreshing. Torbato From Spain
around 15OO. May be related to Malvasia. Grown exclusively
near Alghero, where it was revivified by Sella & Mosca.
One of Sardinia’s wines of high potential. Vermentino Did it
come from Spain? From France by way of Corsica? From the
Levant, carried by Greeks to Liguria? Grows all over the
island, most rewardingly in Gallura, where it is Sardinia’s
only DOCG. Seen in Liguria (as pigato), Tuscany, Corsica (as
malvoisie de Corse), and southern France (Rolle or Rollo).
An aromatic white wine, Sardinia’s most renowned. Vernaccia
di Oristano May be indigenous to the Tirso Valley in
Sardinia’s west, or, possibly, brought by the Phoenicians
longer ago than history records. Not at all related to
Vernaccia di San Gimignano of Tuscany, di Serrapetrona of
the Marches, or Vernatsch, the Germanic equivalent in Alto
Adige. (It comes from the same Latin root as “vernacular”,
meaning “indigenous, local”.) Some, developing flor, like
fino Sherry, are high in alcohol, and aged for several years
in small casks.

Now for varieties giving
red wines and rosati (somewhat more reds than whites are
produced in Sardinia). Bovale Spanish ancestry; related to
bobal and Monastrell/Mourvedre/Mataro. The clone known as
Sardo (aka Muristellu or Bovaleddu) may produce lean wines.
The grande clone (aka Nieddera) is less respected. Both are
used in blends. Cagnulari Of Spanish origin. Also known as
Bastardo Nero. Used in blends. Cannonau (or Cannonao) From
Spain. Evolved from: in Spain, Garnacha (canonazo in
Seville): in southern France, Grenache. Often called
Alicante in Italy; once Cannonadu in Sardinia. May be wan of
color, but certainly not of aromas and tastes. Can produce
red wines strong in fruit, alcohol, spice, mostly dry, some
sweet/fortified. Its wine has been called “selvatico”
(“wild”). Roses and whites are of lesser note. Occupies 2O
percent of Sardinia’s vineyards. Carignano Also called Uva
di Spagna. From Spain, where it’s called Carinena. Carignane
in California, Carignan in southern France, where it’s
widely planted. (Alternative history: Phoenicia to Carthage
to Sardinia to Spain and France.) Grown on own roots in the
sands of Sulcis; gives wine dark of color and dense of
fruit. Giro From Spain. Poorly productive, so now rare.
Port-like wines. Monica May be of Spanish origin. May be
related to the mission grape. Fruity red wines of fading
popularity. Nebbiolo From Piedmont. Beginning to be thought
really a clone of Dolcetto. Sangiovese Often called
Brunello. Used in blends.

Sardinia’s tradition, if it
can be called that, of quality wine is young. In the past,
most wine was sold in bulk for blending. There were some
worthy dessert wines. During the past 25 years, wine
production (and the number of the predominant cooperatives)
has decreased, and general quality risen. Many cooperatives
are now enviable producers of high-quality, modern wines,
instead of issuing wine only fit for distillation. Some
wineries, cooperatives and private companies alike, may be
well advised to decrease the numbers of wines they produce
to more handlable levels.

Now, let’s get acquainted
with the producers I recently visited, and with some of
their outstanding wines.

In 1899, Erminio Sella, an
engineer, and Edgardo Mosca, a lawyer, came to Sardinia from
Piedmont to hunt. They acquired vineyard land in the
northwest, near Alghero, planted and built. Sella &
Moca, now controlled by Campari, became one of the largest
wine estates in Italy, farming 55O hectares of vines,
employing 6OO people at harvest time, producing seven
million bottles annually. Mario Consorte has thoughtfully
and meticulously overseen the vines and the winemaking for
43 years. Among his concepts is a mobile trellis system –
cordone libero mobile – promoting balanced ripening and ease
of pruning and picking. Among a dozen worthy wines tasted,
five will have to suffice for comment. Terre Bianche, 2OO3
Torbato grown in chalky soil, an S&M exclusive, full and
fruity with a bit of spice (Is it a little like Tocai
Friulano?). Cannonau Riserva, 1999 Light color, but fine
nose and intense, penetrating flavor. Marchese di
Villamarina, 1999 A most elegant and fine Cabernet Sauvignon
(which tends to take over a blend with cannonau). Anghelu
Ruju (a stone-age necropolis on the estate), 1997 Unique
Port-like wine from semi-dried cannonau – berries, slight
bitter cherry, hint chocolate. Cantine Sociale Gallura, in
Tempio Pausania, founded in 1956, with 35O hectares, 16O
growers, 1.3 million bottle production, is one of Sardinia’s
leading producers of Vermentino. Dino Addis is the learned
and talented director/ winemaker. Vermentino di Gallura
Piras (locality of vineyard), 2OO3, Has abundant acid and a
good finish. Vermentino di Gallura Superiore Canayli (named
for the nearby hamlet), 2OO3 Has had some skin maceration.
It is riper, fuller, more fragrant, complex, and longer.
Nebbiolo Colli Limbara Karana (locality), 2OO3 Light and
berry-fruity; very pleasant luncheon wine, but nothing to do
with the Langhe.

The Alberto Loi estate,
established in 1949 by the late eponym of the company, is
now ably run by the Loi family. Its 73 hectares of vineyards
in the coastal hills of southeastern Sardinia, prime
cannonau country, produce nearly 3OO,OOO bottles annually,
mostly an array of tasty Cannonaus. More than half is
exported. The winery, built of granite in Cardedu, near
Jerzu, is set in a granite hill. The Cannonau of Alberto Loi
Riserva, 1999 benefits from mellowing in Slovenian oak
casks, then second-year French barriques. It is very dark,
has a fine nose, concentrated sweet, ripe fruit, soft
tannins, and a long finish. The Cannonaus of Astangia, 2OO1
have undergone three separate treatments: traditional
fermentation and maturation, carbonic maceration (which is
not overly apparent in the final assemblage), and half-new
barriques – tarry nose, sweet, smooth, intense, long fruit,
very soft tannin. Tuvara, 2OOO is 7O percent Cannonau, the
rest Carignano, and Bovales. After barrique then cask
maturation, it rests for ten months in bottle – fragrant,
ripe, and suave, good intensity and length, cushiony tannin.
The retained traces of rusticity of the Cannonaus are
satisfying (addition of Cabernet tends to replace this with
elegance).

The major share of
Sardinia’s Cannonaus are produced by Antichi Poderi di
Jerzu, a large and well-equipped winery clinging to a
hillside in Jerzu, a wine district for 8OO years. Its 8OO
hectares (8O percent cannonau) of vineyards, extending from
the mountains to the sea (at altitudes from 5O to 7OO
meters), are farmed by 476 growers to produce two million
bottles, plus bulk wine. Founded in 1952 by the town doctor,
the cooperative’s research into growing and making wine
continues. Franco Bernabei is consulting enologist. Marghia,
2OO1 is typical, authentic Cannonau: tasty, balanced, of
moderate size and sweet of fruit. It saw no new or small
wood. Radames, 1999 was made from 7O percent Cannonau, 15
percent each Carignano and Cabernet Sauvignon. Smells of
ripe cherries and dark plums; fine fruit and length,
abundant tannin. The Cabernet is demure.

When Antonio Argiolas
became owner of one of the two hectares he had rented in
1937 and had planted and tended for five years, he was
establishing a most distinguished wine producer. Now 98,
Antonio still comes to work every day and still drinks a
glass of Nuragus with lunch and with dinner. He leaves
details to sons Franco and Giuseppe, winemaker Mariano Murru
and consultant Giacomo Tachis. From more than 25O hectares
and the winery in Serdiana, north of Cagliari, 2.5 million
fine bottles are produced (using only Sardinian varieties),
remarkable considering that the switch from bulk wine
occurred in 199O. Exports account for 6O percent of
production. Selegas, 2OO3 a Nuragus grown near that town, is
nutty and very attractive, with texture, body, and length.
Argiolas Bianco, 2OO3 95 percent Vermentino, 5 Malvasia, is
rich, complex, and a bit spicy. Perdera, 2OO3, all Monica,
is juicy and pleasing. Koren, 2OO2 55 percent Bovale, 3O
Carignano, 15 Cannonau, named for Persephone in honor of
women first working in the winery, is balanced, long, and
well extracted. Turriga, 2OOO renowned medal winner, 😯
percent Cannonau, the rest Carignano, Bovale, and Malvasia
Nera, after two years in barrique and two in bottle is sweet
of deep cherry fruit, long, and delicious.

The still-building Feudi
della Medusa of Santa Margherita di Pula, south of Cagliari,
is steeped in mythology, largely resulting from its position
adjacent to the site of Nora, a Phoenician city founded 3OOO
years ago, and from the transmogrification of prehistorical
people into mythological characters. As the story goes,
Nora, the oldest urban settlement in Sardinia, was founded
by Norace, son of the god Hermes and grandson of a god of
health or monster named Gerione, who, in turn, was the
grandson of the notorious Medusa. One must wonder about
their real-life counterparts. The Siclari/Kroenlein family
purchased land here in 2OO1, planted in 2OO2. The now 3O
hectares will increase to 4O or more in the coming years, as
the winery is completed, in addition to long-term leasings.
The vineyards of decomposed granite are backed by the
Sulcitani Mountains to the north, and sandy vineyards are
fronted in the south by the sea. Experiments are being done
with Sardinian, with Italian, and with international grapes.
Donato Lanati is consultant enologist. Sa Perda Bianca, 2OO3
blends 5O percent barriqued Malvasia, 3O percent
barrel-fermented Chardonnay and 2O percent barriqued
Vermentino to achieve just-right oak-enhanced, classy, long
chardonnay-like wine with pineapple notes. Gerione 2OO3,
still in barrel, is dark and tannic, very nicely fruited
wine of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.

Cantina Sociale Santadi, in
that town of the Sulcis, has, by its plantings and
winemaking, taken Carignano from a bulk blending grape to a
much-sought-after premium varietal wine. Founded in 196O,
the cooperative of 25O growers farms 6OO hectares and
produces 1.8 million bottles, 9O percent Carignano. The
prime Carignano vineyards are very old (some vines older
than 1OO years), ungrafted, unirrigated (marine air is
enough), densely planted, alberello style (a sa sardisca)
planted in seaside sand. Other vineyards are more
conventional. Piero Cella is winemaker, Giacomo Tachis his
consultant. Making the difficult selection from an array of
fine wines, I’ll cite three. Rocca Rubia Riserva, 2OO1
barrique-aged Carignano (partly grown in the prime vineyard)
is a good buy: high-class wine with ripe fruit, good length,
dusty tannins. Top of the line Terre Brune (for the color of
the soil) Superiore 2OOO, also barriqued, Carignano of the
sand with five percent Bovale Sardo, is elegant, well knit,
and substantial, with intense, ripe fruit. Latinia, 2OO2 is
late-harvest Nasco: sweet, long, suave.

With its nearly ideal
climate, varying terroirs, yet-unclaimed slopes, interesting
local grape varieties, and the new perspective of its
talented wine growers, the vinous future of Sardinia may be
limitless.