Prosecco’s Strong Strong Niche

If
most wine drinkers who enjoy bubbles today were to describe
the pyramid of acceptable quality sparklers it would no
doubt start with Champagne at the pinnacle, followed by
method traditionelle wines from California, Cava at the base
and Prosecco sandwiched somewhere in the middle. Prosecco is
a popular everyday choice because its flavors are usually
expressive and it fits a comfortable price point, most often
under $2O. There are also a number of different styles to
fit a diverse range of palates. My view of the seemingly
ubiquitous chicly packaged Italian bubbly, however, has
always been quite sceptical. Almost invariably I have found
there to be a depressing industrial sameness to most
Prosecco. Countless people have told me that I just don’t
get it, that it’s a fun casual wine that you don’t need to
analyze, just chill and enjoy. I like it in theory, but
whether sweet or dry, the wines often taste generic to me,
with light, cloying melony flavors, not much structure and a
diffuse, if vaguely clean finish. More than a wine, Prosecco
often strikes me as a drink, one that is suitable primarily
for mixing.

Prosecco is actually the
name of a grape variety native to the Veneto in northeastern
Italy. The wine that’s made it famous bares little in common
with Champagne, showing none of the yeasty, toasty flavors
of a bottle-fermented sparkler. Its aromas and flavors
approximate closely to their grape origins: flowery, peachy,
often with slightly bitter undertones. The grape, like the
wine that it makes, is not dramatic in flavor. Most, though
not all, Proseccos on the market are made in a slightly
sweet style. Like Asti, they are fermented in pressurized
tanks but, in comparison, tend to be quite a bit fuller in
body (generally 11 to 11.5% in alcohol) due to the fact that
they undergo a second fermentation in tank. While at one
time the milder Prosecco frizzante (a less carbonated wine
with softer textures) constituted the predominant style, now
it appears that the market features far more Prosecco
spumante, which is fully sparkling. This version usually
tastes drier, regardless of the residual sugar content,
because the stronger carbonation somewhat masks whatever
sugars are present. Labeling terminology may appear somewhat
random, but often you will find the optional designations
Brut or Extra Dry (which is traditional and confusingly,
just as in Champagne, indicates a wine that tastes a bit
sweeter) to guide you as to style. There are also
differentiations based upon the fact that some Prosecco is
classified DOC, indicating geographic origin in classified
production zones within the eastern Veneto, yield
restrictions and more stringent production protocols. There
are several individual district designations. Valdobbiadene
is a mark of quality, tending to produce grapes with more
potential structure and acidity because it enjoys a cooler
climate and sits atop higher than average elevations within
the Prosecco production area. Most wines from this locality
are Brut in style. “Prosecco di Conegliano” also carries a
higher quality connotation and, in my opinion, the wines
generally exceed Valdobbiadene in quality. You will also
encounter wines labeled Conegliano-Valdobbiadene, which
indicates a blend. Probably the finest quality sub-zone is
Cartizze. The vast majority of wines on the market, however,
are not DOC-designated at all, but IGT. As a generalization,
these tend to be fresher, lighter and more moderately
priced. Also less interesting.

A recent blind tasting of
several dozen Prosecco’s yielded the gems in my tasting
notes along with, I am sad to report, the vast majority of
wines which were sound but eminently forgettable.
Interestingly, beyond the $12 retail price point there was
little correlation between quality and price, although one
of the most expensive wines did actually turn out to be the
best. If you’re looking for something merely refreshing that
will serve as a fruity aperitif, I would much more highly
recommend Moscato d’Asti over the average Prosecco. It has
much more purity of fruit, charm and brightness. On the
other hand, the wines listed in my tasting notes are all
delicious and highly worthy of consideration with
appropriate food (cured meats, olives, salads, cheeses) or
just by themselves.