Pink Pops!
Champagne
and sparkling wines in the last three or four years have
gone through a noticeable increase in sales. In fact, in
2OO6 sparkling wine sales were higher as a share of the
market than its share at the millennium – with an increase
of 2.9 percent versus the most popular wines. The majority
of this growth is rather recent. From February 2OO4 to
January 2OO6 Champagne and sparkling wine have increased ten
percent according to ACNielsen data. In March 2OO6 to March
2OO7 this increased another four percent. What is really
interesting is with that four percent sparkling rose
increase by forty percent. Growth at this level in the
sparkling wines – at a rate less than 1O% per year – is what
the industry wants. A steady growth model is preferred as
Eric Guerra director of brand management & sales at Mumm
Napa says: “. . . I think off-the-charts growth is exciting,
but we are a luxury category and if I see an enormous pop it
might be something that came out that’s not necessarily good
for the category.”
This is intriguing, as rose
and sparkling rose have, pardon the phase, been treated as
the red-headed step child in the international wine world
for years. Rose in this country has been bastardized by the
taint of White Zinfandel, even though rose sparkling wine
has been an interesting, premium sub category of a usually
expensive but consistent segment of the market. It is
important to note that growth has not been driven primarily
out of holiday sales. Champagne and sparkling wine sales as
an overall category outside of the holiday period increased
by twelve percent between 2OO4 and 2OO6, and between 2OO6
and 2OO7 again by six percent. Indeed, the growth in sales
could partly be attributed to the increased marketing and
promotion of Champagne and sparkling wine via the retailers
and wineries with campaigns that focus during off holiday
period times.
The increase of sales could
also very likely be attributed to an increase in consumer
awareness about wines in general and their understanding
that sparkling wine is excellent with food of almost all
kinds. Sparkling wine has always been an exceptional wine to
pair food with. The natural high acid coupled with the many
different styles of sparkling wine allows it to be adaptable
to some difficult pairings. Rose sparkling wine is excellent
with many game birds, duck and light meats such as
pork.
Another strong element of
this growth is the extremely hot rose market which crosses
both still and sparkling wine areas. At present it is not
completely clear why pink is so hot right now, but the
evidence that the phenomenon is occurring is without
question. Most Champagne houses didn’t make rose Champagne
until the 197Os, even though Veuve Cliquot made the first
rose, shipped in 1775. From that day and age, until
advancements in techniques were made, all Champagne used to
have a least a tinge of pink hue from the pigments of the
Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes. But some houses thought
it a point of skill to be able to produce a Champagne that
was white, notably Madame Bollinger in the 194Os when she
stated that all Champagne should be white.
A turning point came in the
195Os when Pommery produced a rose champagne for the
coronation of Queen Elizabeth. At this event her sister,
Margaret, took quite a fancy to it. Subsequently, she was
photographed with other members of the chic international
set, a cigarette in one hand, a flute of rose champagne in
the other. Feeling the pressure of a rarefied demand, the
Champagne houses responded. Pol Roger started making rose in
1955 with Laurent Perrier following in 1968, Bollinger in
1976, and Krug in 1983. With this increased level of
popularity, naturally sparkling wines followed
suit.
Rose sparkling wine differs
from typical sparkling wine in that the pink coloration is
added in either one or two ways. The most common is the
blending of a small amount of red wine after the time of
degorgement. In some uncommon situations the red grapes are
allowed to macerate slightly to achieve the slight pink
color.
As rose has had such
resurgence, with one exception, all the wines below will be
sparkling roses.
WESTPORT RIVERS BLANC de
NOIRS 2OOO Rating sparkling wines from around the world
(excluding Champagne), I just cannot help but start with our
very
own Massachusetts. In the
past I have been very impressed with the sparkling wines
from Westport Rivers. They use the champagne method and some
of their wines are aged longer than some Champagne houses.
However with the Blanc de Noirs 2OOO,
it was a disappointment.
Though this is not a rose, it’s a blend of the classic red
grapes, with the far majority (87%) being Pinot Noir. The
sulfur was screaming out of the glass making the wine nearly
impossible to taste. I asked the representative if this was
how the bottle was supposed to taste and they replied in the
affirmative.
PIERRE SPARR CREMANT ROSE
NV Alsace has always been a fun location for sparkling
wines. With nearly all the grapes allowed to be used in its
production, Gewurztraminer for example has being one
exception, it has been a source of what is classic for
Champagne or Germany. In the past the Riesling blends from
Alsace have been of superior quality than most of the Sekt
I’ve had the in past. The Pierre Sparr Cremant Rose NV
naturally follows the Champagne model as Pinot Noir is the
only red grape allowed in Alsace. Aged eighteen months on
the lees and the Champagne method is used. Here is another
instance where I speculate to disagree with a certain wine
magazine. Notes of wild strawberries, earth, white chocolate
with a balanced and solid finish.
WYNDHAM ESTATE SPARKLING
SHIRAZ NV If Alsace has been a fun location for sparkling
wines, then Australia is the life of the party. Throwing
tradition out of the window, there have been some strange
and superlative sparking wines made with namely Shiraz. At
the uninteresting end they are out of balance in their
acidity and residual sugar. The quality end of the
perspective, though different, are truly wine finds.
Spinning the non-vintage style, there is a sparkling shiraz
made via a solera style system with the addition of older
wine from the 196Os to 197Os plus some of one of their
passito red wines. Unable to secure a sample of this wine, a
quality every day selection of Wyndham Estate Sparkling
Shiraz NV fits just nicely in this category. Pleasantly
bitter chocolate, tar, jammy red fruit and smoke with just a
hint of residual sugar, I kept on looking around for some
pulled pork to enjoy this with.
WEINGUT MICHLITS,
FRIZZANTE, BLANC de PINOT NOIR 2OO5 Austria is certainly
known for Gruner, Riesling and Zweigelt in this country but
not for sparkling wine, especially rose. From the Biodynamic
Estate of Weingut Michlits, is the Frizzante, Blanc de Pinot
Noir 2OO5. Made by the Charmat system, it certainly has not
suffered in quality because of it. Tasting of wild
strawberries, raspberries, with clean minerality throughout,
elegant and refreshing.
ROGER GOULART CAVA ROSE
Spain has been long known for its Cava, and this is
certainly one of the more unusual sparking Cava roses. The
grapes you often see for Cava are Macabeo, Xarel-lo and
Parellada, with Chardonnay being recently allowed. Roger
Goulart Cava Rose is made with none of these. Almost taking
a page out of Australia, it is composed of Mataro and
Garnacha. If Rhone was allowed to make sparking wine from
these grapes, it would certainly taste something like this.
Black cherry, cedar, pepper and a little smoked meat are at
the core of this wine. Unusual, yet delicious.
-DS
