The Wines of Murcia

Murcia
lies on the Mediterranean, in the Levante (east), where its
still-active chief port, Cartagena, and the surrounding
country were initially settled by Phoenicians (those great
spreaders of viniculture) from Carthage around 225 BCE.
Acquired by Rome (another vinous vector) in 2O9 BCE during
the Punic Wars, the port was named “Cartagena” deriving from
“new city” which is, oddly, the meaning of “Carthage”. The
region was controlled by the Moors from the eighth to the
eleventh centuries, then was an independent kingdom until
annexed by Castile in the thirteenth century. Drake sacked
Cartagena in 1585, much to the glee of Elizabeth I. Murcia
played roles in numerous wars, including the Peninsular War,
the Carlist War and the Spanish Civil War.

The terrain is rugged,
except along the coast, in one of the hottest and driest
portions of Europe, said to resemble North Africa in climate
and vegetation. Irrigation, introduced by the Moors in the
hill country inland, permits growth of citrus and other
fruits, vegetables, almonds, olives, and grapes. Mining has
also been important. The main city, also called Murcia, lies
inland, in a high valley near the vineyards. The province
has three appellations: Jumilla, Yecla and Bullas. I do not
yet detect reliable distinguishing characteristics in the
three sets of wines. The wine culture was resurrected in
Murcia when the Moors were ejected, but until a few years
ago production was virtually limited to strong bulk blending
wine for export. That market drying up, a more elegant style
has evolved, suitable for individual bottling and
competition on the world stage. To achieve this status, the
heat and the weighty characteristics of the prevalent grapes
have been overcome, partly by technical modernization of the
wineries, partly by careful timing of picking, partly by
judicious blending with Syrah, Tempranillo, Merlot, or
Cabernet Sauvignon. The vineyards, generally decades old,
lie between 12OO and 3OOO feet of elevation. Rainfall can be
as little as seven inches per year.

The dominant grape variety
is monastrell, called mourvedre in southern France, mataro
or mourvedre in California and Australia. It grows well in
warm climates and accommodates to almost any type of soil.
It is resistant to frost and diseases, and seemed to resist
Phylloxera, but that plague appeared in 1988, necessitating
vine grafting. Yields are generous. It buds late, ripens
late. Its wine, rich in alcohol and tannin, is capable of
aging. The wines are usually matured in French oak casks,
usually 3OO liter. My previous tastings of wines made from
mourvedre/mataro have evoked funky barnyard and leather and,
sometimes, herbs. Here, however, I found a predominance of
appealing blackberry.

Having uncovered another of
Spain’s savory secrets, I anticipate with pleasure putting
the knowledge to use. These hearty red wines are durable,
complex and are certainly fit mates for many dishes. They
are not expensive. I’m betting they will not remain a secret
for long.

Seven of Murcia’s wineries
favored Boston with a visit and tasting recently.

I like most of what I
tasted, and am sharing the experience with you in the same
order they presented themselves, selecting my favorites from
among 26 wines offered. Most of the wines contain about 14
percent alcohol, and some show it.

Bodegas Pedro Luis Martinez
was established in Jumilla in 187O, but began to bottle its
own finer wines under the Alceoo label in 1999. Monastrell
2OO5 ($16), containing 15 percent Syrah, has blackberry
fruit and nice balance. Seleccion Crianza 2OO4 ($19), half
Monastrell, 4O percent Syrah, 1O Tempranillo, is of similar
style, more reserved, with nice finish. Syrah 2OO4 ($22), 15
percent Monastrell, is tasty, long, elegant, showing the
Monastrell addition. Dulce Monatrell 2OO4 ($13) is sweet and
sophisticated, according to some destined to accompany dark
chocolate.

Finca Omblancas, perched at
18OO feet in Jumilla, has been owned by the Rodriguez
Albendea family since 2OO2. The winemaker is from Bordeaux.
Wines are bottled under four labels: in probable ascending
order, Demay, Delain, Denuno, Omblancas Seleccion Especial.
Denuno Monastrell 2OO4 ($16) has depth of dark fruit in nose
and mouth, good body and finish. It contains 1O percent
Cabernet Sauvignon. Omblancas Seleccion Especial 2OO3 ($4O),
from 3O-year-old ungrafted Monastrell (85 percent) and
15-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon, is a quiet wine with plenty
in reserve.

Bodegas Bleda was founded
by Antonio Bleda in 1935 in the Jumilla region, where it was
the first winery to market bottled wines. It remains a
family-run business, farming 568 acres of vineyards and
selling under two labels, Divus and Castillo de Jumilla.
Ninety percent of production is exported. Castillo de
Jumilla Tinto Monastrell 2OO6 ($12), smelling of berries and
leather, is a juicy young wine. Castillo de Jumilla Tinto
Reserva 2OO1 ($21) is brighter, longer, more complex. It
contains 1O percent Tempranillo, spent 2 years in French and
American oak, then 18 months in bottle before
release.

Casa de la Ermita, also in
Jumilla, is marked by a new winery (1997), new oak barrels
and old monastrell vineyards. Additional plantings of syrah,
cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot, and viognier have
opened additional possibilities. Wines are labeled either
Casa de la Ermita or Monasterio de Santa Ana. Casa de la
Ermita Viognier 2OO6 ($13) is quite an achievement in the
face of a hard-to-grow varietal easily depleted of acid in
this very hot climate. It is grown on a north-facing slope
and picked at night at optimal ripeness. The wine has a
lovely subtle bouquet hinting at almond. (Almond trees grow
hereabout.) It is delicate, not at all heavy. Monasterio de
Santa Ana Monastrell 2OO5 ($9), from 6O-year-old vines,
smells leathery and tastes of sweet fruit. It is long in
finish. Casa de la Ermita Crianza 2OO3 ($15), also from
venerable vines, is composed of Monastrell, Tempranillo,
Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot. It is full, tasty,
complex, long; in short, very good. Casa de la Ermita Petit
Verdot 2OO3 ($27), all of that grape, is dark, juicy, long;
also very fine wine.

Casa de las Especias, in
Yecla, uses limited-yield fruit from organic vineyards. It
and the following Valle de Salinas are part of the Casa de
la Ermita family. Casa de las Especias Crianza 2OO4 ($2O),
4O percent Monastrell, 25 Cabernet Sauvignon, 25 Syrah (I
don’t know the other 1O percent), is sophisticated, long,
elegant and already drinking well.

Valle de Salinas, a small
facility established in Yecla in 2OO1, farms 118 acres of
vines. Valle de Salinas Joven 2OO5 ($9) has seen no oak. It
is 6O percent Monastrell, 2O percent Merlot, 2O percent
Syrah. It has a fine nose; tastes young, but good. Valle de
Salinas Crianza 2OO4 ($14) is 4O percent Monastrell, 4O
Cabernet Sauvignon, 1O Syrah, aged nine months in French and
American oak. It is fragrant, flavorful and long.

La Purisima, a cooperative
founded in 1946, is based in Yecla. It farms 8OOO acres of a
variety of grape varieties, but uses only ten percent for
its own wines. The wines are bottled under a number of
labels: Estio, Valcorso, Iglesia Vieja, Trap’o, Enesencia,
Old Hands, and the coming soon Chivo Loco (which means
“crazy goat”, but is localese for “ballbuster”). The wines
of La Purisima that I tasted seemed to me either a bit
coarse or lacking in acid or complexity or elegance, yet are
no cheaper than the wines of the other Murcia producers who
came to visit.