LBV Ports

After
explosive growth in the 199Os, Port sales in the US have
been in the doldrums, flat to negative, this entire decade.
The larger trend is that the entire fortified wine category
has contracted. Despite periodic calls to “re-invent” itself
and become more relevant to younger consumers, the major
fortifieds (Port, Sherry and Madeira) have not shown much
life. Perhaps because of the enthusiasm whipped up every few
years surrounding the declaration of a Vintage product, Port
has been the most firmly established of these wine types,
appealing to collectors and also a broader group of wine
lovers who associate seeing a particular year on a wine
label with quality.

In terms of sales and
current market standing the LBV category is one of the
healthiest, if most misunderstood, sub-varieties of Port.
Ironically it is a relative newcomer to the venerable three
hundred year old industry, having arisen as a style about
fifty years ago during another period of slumping sales and
calls to make the product easier to use. An LBV, or Late
Bottled Vintage, Port is not what it appears. Despite the
fact that it is vintage dated, it is not a true Vintage
Port. The latter is bottled after about two years and
requires extensive bottle aging, after which it must be
decanted off a heavy sludge-like sediment and consumed in
relatively short order depending on how old the bottle is.
LBV, on the other hand, is also the product of a single
harvest but is bottled after usually five or six years in
cask, is filtered so it requires no decanting, and has a
relatively long shelf life after opening so it does not need
to be consumed in one sitting. Vintage in style (that is
dark ruby, with relatively strong tannins and black fruit
flavors) it was created by one of the preeminent Port
houses, Taylor Fladgate, as an answer to the problem of how
to serve a quality Port in a restaurant environment without
having to worry about extra service steps, high costs and
the potential for spoilage. It’s a fair question as to how
many people who order it in restaurants or buy it at retail,
however, understand that it is not the Vintage Port they are
getting.

Judging by my most recent
blind tasting of LBV Ports, there is high quality across
board currently and the wines represent true value. Whereas
a Vintage product from a top shipper will cost $75 to $1OO
upon release, for a wine that will not really be
approachable for over a decade, the same house’s LBV will
generally be available for a quarter of the price. The irony
is that the producer has also aged its LBV more than twice
as long before sale. Whereas the complexity and nuance of
the mature Vintage product may be lacking, the LBV is a
pretty good approximation and is built for up front sensual
pleasure.

The following are the cream
of the current crop, listed in ascending order of
preference.

Dow’s
2OO1 LBV This
renowned shipper’s Port wa s a deep luminescent garnet color
with grapey, pine-like scents and intriguing whiffs of tar
and coffee. It promised a bit more complexity than the
palate delivered however. Quite sweet, almost candied, it
had an irresistible black fig, chocolate confectionary
quality, and while directly appealing it seemed a bit simple
compared to the other Ports. I would serve this with a tangy
blue-veined harder cheese. It would also work with a fruit
compote. $21

Cockburn’s
2OOO LBV A more
delicate style LBV, lighter in color and softer on the
palate, this wine from one of the great old names of the
industry had a clean, creamy feel on the palate. There was a
touch of tangy citrus to balance off the rich, smooth, sun
dried fruit accents. Stylish and understated, if it’s
possible to describe a wine with 2O% alcohol using that
term, there were mellow chocolatey flavors along with the
date and raisin. This would be an ideal foil for a chocolate
mousse or even a creme brulee. $2O

Ramos
Pinto 2OOO LBV
Deep, brooding and opaque in color, this Port has an intense
personality that begins with the aroma and carries into a
long finish. Noted primarily for their aged Tawny Ports, as
befits a Portuguese owned shipper, and their Douro table
wines, I was positively impressed with the dramatic flavor
impact this LBV made. Slightly minty, with blackberry, dark
chocolate and tar-like scents, its flavors are ultra sweet
and creamy. Cocoa-like, smoky and powerfully fruity, it’s a
real mouthful. Tannins are also substantial. The only
drawback is a bit of an over-the-top structure, with
virtually no balancing acidity. This is an ideal choice for
a hard, well-aged farmhouse cheddar. $22

Ferreira
1999 LBV The
largest Port shipper, also Portuguese owned, Ferreira is
also noted historically for their aged Tawnies. In this
context this wine had a fair amount of complexity and a
slightly tawny-like feel to it. It is a so called
“traditional LBV”, meaning that in contrast to the
predominant style it is bottled younger, after four years,
unfiltered. Therefore, it does age and improve somewhat in
the bottle and will also throw a bit of fine sediment. This
Port is quite minty and raisiny, with smooth, lush toffee
and caramel flavors. Jammy and minty on the palate at the
same time, it actually tasted lower in tannin than most of
the others, with an oozing richness. Try this with a black
fruit tart or dense chocolate cake. $22

Taylor
Fladgate 2OO1 LBV
As the original producer of LBV (then known as “vintage
reserve”), Taylor is also the category leader not only in
the US market but worldwide. They have always been my
benchmark for Vintage Port. This wine was of a different
style than the others: earthy, tobacco-like, with not only
rich black fruit extracts but a bit of powerful tannin. The
flavors tended toward bittersweet chocolate and, despite a
very velvety texture, there was an underlying tang of
acidity to refresh the palate. The slightly tobacco, gamey
scents carried through as grace notes, making the flavors a
bit edgy and more interesting. Enjoy this thrilling Port
with walnuts and black mission figs. $2O

Graham’s
2OO1 LBV One of the
prestige names of the Vintage Port market (along with Taylor
and Fonseca), Graham has a reputation for producing the
sweetest style Ports – and this wine will not disappoint
people with insatiable sugar cravings. It was the best wine
in this great company, however, because of its beautifully
soft but concentrated flavors and its nuances of pepper,
raspberry and caramel. Not the biggest powerhouse, or the
one with the sweetest impression, it’s just a beautifully
silky and satisfying drink that I would prefer sipping on
its own, without accompaniment, so as not to risk throwing
any of its charming flavors out of balance. $21