Franc-ly One of the Best

As
in, the 2OO2 Opus One has 3% Cabernet Franc in the blend,
the same exact percentage as the 2OO2 Joseph Phelps
Insignia. In fact, why is its presence almost mandatory in
California’s most prestigious so-called “Meritage” Bordeaux
blends? Questions abound. How can the presence of such a
small percentage of a grape in any way influence the
characteristics of a finished wine? Why do some of the
acknowledged legends of the current winemaking scene (Napa
Valley’s Viader, or Dalla Valle Maya, for example) blend
almost equal proportions of Cabernet Franc into its more
famous cousin, Cabernet Sauvignon, and avoid using Merlot at
all? With a flagship like Chateau Cheval Blanc, one of the
world’s most prestigious wines, that is often comprised of
two thirds Cabernet Franc, why aren’t there more producers
trying? And what about the “pure” varietal Cabernet Franc
grown in cooler climates, such as France’s central Loire
Valley, why haven’t they inspired more widespread
interest?

It’s almost
impossible to discuss Cabernet Franc without referring to
the more famous and ubiquitous Cabernet Sauvignon, if only
because “Cabernet” to most wine people, is a synonym for the
latter. The attributes that set Cabernet Franc apart are its
aromatic interest (woodsy, herby and red berry-like), its
lower concentration of tannins and other phenols, and its
slightly higher level of acidity. Put this way, adding some
of it to a blend affords the potential for softening or
moderating more intense Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines. As
we begin to experience a backlash against “monster” reds,
high in alcohol and lavish in oak, it’s quite possible that
Cabernet Franc, with its more elegant personality, will come
closer to the forefront, not only as a blending partner but
in its own right. It will remain, however, a specialty item
rather than a mainstream wine for some time to come, if only
because there is very little planted in most of the regions
that produce the wine we drink. In California, for instance,
although acreage has doubled in ten years, the Cabernet
Franc crop represents less than 1% (compared to 25% for
Cabernet Sauvignon) of the overall red grapes harvested
annually.

It’s interesting
that Franc actually is senior to Sauvignon in the sense that
recent DNA testing proves that the latter evolved from it.
The child obviously grew up to attain a greater stature than
the parent, at least in terms of reputation and brawn. But
the advantage of Cabernet Franc, in addition to its aromatic
and flavor differences, is that it can withstand damp,
heavy, cool soils in a way that Sauvignon, with its more
demanding requirements for heat and ripeness cannot. That’s
why it’s almost exclusively the Cabernet planted on the
Right Bank in Bordeaux where the grape has probably been
grown for thousands of years. And that’s why it’s attracting
attention from winemakers and consumers who want to
diversify their palate. Cooler climate reds are in. The
great thing about Cabernet Franc is that since it’s so
underground in terms of popularity, virtually all of the
producers who make it are doing it out of a passionate
belief in the grape. Their wines are not going to be to
everyone’s taste but they are serious examples and not mere
cash cows trading on the easy saleability of the name. I’m
particularly fond of good Cabernet Franc because of its
compatibility with a wider variety of food than Cabernet
Sauvignon. It’s not only the less massive feel and the
tendency to show less sweetness, even when produced in
California – for me a top Cabernet Franc is all about the
finish, which is quiet but lingering. Not only does the
perfume announce the experience before you actually sip, but
you tend to taste wines made from this grape long after
you’ve swallowed. What follows are some of my favorite
current examples.

Cabernet Franc
from the Loire Valley is one of the world’s best kept
classic wine secrets. When I first started tasting these
wines, in the early ‘8Os, I didn’t understand why anyone
would make them. Things have changed since then, and there
are many great masters plying their trade in AOCs such as
Chinon and Bourgeuil. Joguet, Raffault, Olek-Mery, Alliet,
come immediately to mind, each of their names as close to a
guarantee of quality regardless of vintage as the names
Prum, Weil or Haag are in Germany. The top wines have
increased in price in recent years, but the great thing is
because they are so obscure you can often find older, even
mature vintages available in the US, particularly at great
restaurants. The value appellation is Saumur-Champigny,
where none of the wines are particularly memorable but many,
made with whole berry fermenation and minimal if any wood,
show a bright breezy raspberry-like charm at prices often
under $1O. For more serious wines, the prices have risen. An
outstanding young, highly affordable example is produced by
Bernard Baudry in the village of Chinon. His 2OO2 Chinon
“Les Granges”, ($16) a pure varietal as is mandated by the
AOC regulations, shows a palish red color and an enticing
nose of cedar, mushrooms and dried cherries. The flavors of
this single vineyard wine are mineral-accented with slightly
tart, sweet, spicy raspberry the dominant note and an
interesting undertone of green olive present. Also notable:
the tannins are very moderate. This is a red wine screaming
for a fish stew, particularly one inspired by cuisine of
Provence.

Washington State
is the home of one of my other favorite Cabernet Francs: the
Columbia Winery’s from the famed Red Willow Vineyard in the
westernmost part of the Yakima Valley ($23). This wine has a
substantial percentage of the vineyard’s Merlot blended in,
but the 2OO1 vintage shows all Cabernet Franc character:
edgy, dill and thyme-accented red fruit and a smoky finish.
This is truly in the Bordeaux tradition, as the slightly
elevated tannins show, but with a good deal more
accessibility at a young age. It would be an ideal choice
for grilled tuna or chicken, particularly if either were
rubbed with herbs.

Regarding
California plantings, the collective wisdom has been that
the vine does best in more moderate climatic zones, although
experience doesn’t always bear this out. Certainly the
points of differentiation between Cabernet Franc and
Sauvignon are almost lost when the heat accumulation in the
vineyard is too high. The aromatic character is baked out of
the Franc and it can become ungainly and heavy. But in the
right hands, harvested appropriately earlier than Sauvignon,
the Franc can make a wondrous warmer weather red as well.
Still, the best potential for growth to me is in regions
like Carneros, with more moderate climates. I’m not sure why
there aren’t more producers in the Central Coast who are
making varietal Cabernet Franc, but the ones I’ve tried tend
to be lackluster.

UNFORTUNATELY
one of my very favorite other California Cabernet Francs,
the Niebaum Coppola, is now virtually out of production.
This powerhouse pure varietal Franc, from the winery’s own
Napa Rutherford district estat, has shown a beautifully
exotic aromatic profile of black cherries, licorice and sage
in past vintages. Its signature raspberry-like
tobacco-accented fruit flavors and bold personality are
ideal to match with spicy, richly sauced dishes. The grapes
that made this magnificent wine are now being blended into
the estate’s flagship Rubicon, which typically features a
small percentage of the grape blended in among the
predominant Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. If you own some of
the treasured bottles of this wine, however, don’t be in a
rush to open them; my tastings indicate that recent vintages
have at least a seven to ten year window of delicious
drinkability after the date of harvest.