A Visit With Frank Duboeuf

Franck
Duboeuf, son of Georges, the highly successful and
respected Beaujolais negociant, visited recently,
and I was able to taste a representative sample of
the vast array of Duboeuf wines and to become au
courant of Duboeuf doings and the news from
Beaujolais. Franck has worked closely with his
father for 20 years, and holds a responsible
position (Directeur General) at Les Vins de Georges
Duboeuf.

Franck’s wife,
Anne, also part of a wine-producing family and
trained in agronomy, accompanied him. She and
Franck met at Le Hameau du Vin (“The Hamlet of
Wine”) in Romaneche-Thorins in Beaujolais, which
she supervises and Duboeuf sponsors. (It is
strongly suspected that their respective fathers
had this happy match in mind from the start.) Le
Hameau complex contains a comprehensive wine
museum, even a vineyard, Clos de la Gare. It traces
the history of wine from ancient times and the
course from vineyard to bottle, including packaging
and wine posters, all in entertaining fashion,
topped off by a tasting.

The company has
come a long way in 40 years, from Georges, scion of
Pouilly-Fuisse growers, alone on a bicycle selling
wine in his Beaujolais/Macon neighborhood, to
purveyor of 3.5 million cases of scores of wines,
65 percent from Beaujolais, the rest from other
southerly regions (for example, Macon, Ardeche,
Cotes du Rhone, Pays d’Oc). Worldwide exports
account for a significant portion of the
production. (Exact figures are not released.)
Duboeuf has close and stabile relationships with
many talented growers, advising and supervising
viticulture and winemaking. About ten percent of
the wines are vinified at the new Duboeuf winery in
Romaneche-Thorins. Beaujolais produces an annual
average of 15 million cases from 53,000 vineyard
acres: 24,000 of Beaujolais (including Beaujolas
Nouveau), 14,000 Beaujolais-Villages, 15,000 Crus.
The terraine, largely volcanic, is quite hilly. The
soil varies, much of it sandy clay over granite.
The grape is gamay, properly and specifically gamay
noir a jus blanc. All grapes must be handpicked.
Vinification begins within unbroken skins in whole
bunches without crushing or pressing. This process
of carbonic maceration preserves floral and fruity
aromas and flavors so we can enjoy this fresh,
eminently drinkable wine.

To improve
quality, the Duboeuf growers limit grape yields,
practicing “green harvesting” by trimming vines,
buds, blossoms and bunches. Grape bunches are
selected, and, during each vintage, up to 10,000
samples are tasted, analyzed, and referenced, of
which only a few hundred batches may be kept.
That’s about 400 samples being processed per
day.

In Beaujolais,
Duboeuf selects wines from all three appellation
levels – Beaujolais (including the Nouveau),
Beaujolais-Villages, and the ten Crus du
Beaujolais. Wines may have the familiar and
attractive negociant’s flower label or a specific
domaine label. The new Cuvee Prestige line, right
now composed of four wines from Beaujolais (Morgon,
Fleurie, Brouilly, and Moulin-a-Vent), a
Pouilly-Fuisse, and three from the Pays d’Oc, is
the equivalent of reserve quality, and crosses
other categories. They are the strict selections
from low yields of top vineyards.

The news from
Beaujolais revolves around heat, the often
triple-digit temperatures of Europe’s most recent
summer. The dry, unrelenting heat has made wine
production a perilous adventure this year, but
possibly a rewarding one.

The spring frosts
and hailstorms ensured a small crop, down more than
30 percent. The short, hot, rainless growing season
(85 instead of the normal 100 days) delivered
small, concentrated, thick-skinned berries without
much juice. High sugars and rapidly dropping acid
concentrations dictated the earliest harvest in
Beaujolais since the fabled 1893. The grapes were
not otherwise perfectly mature: polyphenols, for
example, had not yet fully developed. Picking on
August 11 to 13 was at least two weeks earlier than
usual. Pickers and winemakers had to be retrieved
from their vacations. Chaptalization was not
needed. Fermentation was unusually rapid. In the
days before cooling was available, it would have
been a general disaster. As it is, selectivity,
great care and skill, and luck are required. Some
great wines are likely to have been made – one must
choose carefully.

Most of the wines
tasted were of the 2002 vintage, which was
generally very good in Beaujolais and environs.
Careful selection eliminated grapes affected by
Botrytis. Harvest was at the normal time, starting
at the end of August. The grapes of 2001 did not
attain the same uniform maturity.

CHARDONNAY 2001, PAYS d’OC, SELECTION de GEORGES
DUBOEUF Surprisingly crisp and fragrant for a
southern wine.

POUILLY-FUISSE
2002, DOMAINE BERANGER Creamy, with good acid
balance.

BROUILLY 2002,
DOMAINE de COMBILLATY Fragrant, ripe, good
substance and structure.

MORGON 2002
(flower label) Lively and long. Fine
fruit.

MORGON 2002,
DOMAINE JEAN DESCOMBES Fine nose. Complex, intense,
long. Juicy.

Both Morgons grow
with airing.

MOULIN-a-VENT
2002, DOMAINE TOUR du BIEF New oak 45%, and it
shows but doesn’t obscure. Cherries and maybe
chocolate in nose. Needs time.

BROUILLY 2001,
CUVEE PRESTIGE A little new oak used, though, glad
to say, not obvious. A substantial wine, flavorful
and long.

One concludes that these moderately priced bottles
are serious and satisfying wines, not just fluff to
toss down with a sandwich.